Episode Transcript
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0:22
Hello, my fellow coffee nerds. It's
0:24
December. And I'm recording this a
0:26
few days after our first
0:29
FTC camp in Guatemala. And
0:31
even though this was our fifth camp, it was
0:33
the first time that we had a
0:36
special guest. My mom came
0:38
to help. and I
0:40
wanted her to help because. FDCs
0:43
have, since the beginning, since its inception
0:46
have always been bilingual, but
0:48
in previous camps, the way that we accomplish
0:50
that was by me doing the whole thing twice.
0:53
Meaning I would do all of the presentations
0:55
in English. The English group would go take a break and then
0:57
the Spanish group would come in and then I would do it all.
1:00
Again in Spanish. So
1:02
the activities. The
1:04
actual fermentations, all
1:06
of that was done as a, an
1:08
entire group altogether. You
1:11
know, he would. sort cherries,
1:13
pulp coffee. I do our yeast, rehydration,
1:16
our inoculation wash the coffee,
1:18
drying. All of that
1:20
cuppings were altogether. But
1:22
when. We had to do classroom
1:24
time and get a lot more into the theory
1:27
of the microbiology and what's going on. I
1:29
would have to separate the groups. And this was a
1:31
difficult setup for me because not only
1:33
was it a lot of energy to do everything
1:35
twice in both languages. but I didn't
1:37
like having to separate the groups because there's
1:39
such a rich discussion when we can all be
1:41
together and just get a lot more diversity
1:44
of perspectives and experiences. So
1:47
I. It took five. Take
1:49
five camps, but I eventually had the idea
1:52
to ask my mom for help. So
1:54
she flew down from California to join us
1:56
for a few days because she is a professional
1:59
interpreter. So having
2:01
her, we were able to do a simultaneous
2:04
translation. So I was giving
2:06
my presentation in English and then we
2:08
had her on. Headphones. And
2:10
all of the Spanish speakers had their little headphones
2:14
and we were able to do a simultaneous live
2:16
translation. And
2:18
it was really exciting because we were able to keep
2:20
the entire group together. And I
2:22
just had a lot more energy to.
2:24
Just be present for the event.
2:27
And then also it gave us a lot more
2:29
time to have discussions and to have,
2:31
these kind of rich interactions
2:34
that aren't just like me talking at a group, but
2:36
the group talking to each other. And
2:38
that was important to me because what I love more than
2:40
coffee microbiology is getting to
2:42
interact with other folks who like to talk about
2:45
coffee, microbiology, and just. The
2:47
coffee scene in general. Which
2:50
brings me to today's episode today
2:52
is episode number 60. And
2:54
as long time listeners know every 10 episodes,
2:57
I get to answer your questions. I
2:59
personally really like these episodes because it
3:01
helps me get out of my head and hear what's still
3:03
confusing or perhaps what I could do
3:05
a better job communicating to you guys. The
3:08
question you will hear today are very similar
3:10
to the types of questions we get to discuss on
3:12
discord. So if you like these kinds
3:14
of topics or this kind of
3:17
discussion episode, I
3:19
think you would really enjoy our live office hours.
3:22
I've had to make some changes because I am
3:24
very much a morning person and
3:26
historically. They, when they started,
3:28
they've been Friday mornings at 10:00 AM
3:31
my time, local time when there was Guatemala or
3:33
Columbia. But I
3:35
eventually heard for many listeners from Hawaii
3:38
and Australia and Indonesia who
3:40
couldn't join because it would be, I don't
3:42
know, like three o'clock in the morning for them, which is
3:44
ridiculous. So I recently
3:47
added a session in my night times to
3:49
include Asia Pacific. We
3:51
recently had our very first
3:53
Asia Pacific discord office hours.
3:56
And one of the questions that came up was
3:58
about the yeast pickier. And
4:00
the question was posed, not just to me, but to
4:02
the group in general. And what was the group's
4:04
experience fermenting with this non Saccharomyces
4:07
east? So this was
4:09
a very into the weeds type
4:11
of discussion. Um, you know, getting
4:13
to talk about a particular fermentation
4:16
protocol, but it's not always
4:18
hardcore microbiology discussions. We
4:20
also have some casual topics that we talk about,
4:23
like brewing and then some more general
4:25
stuff like our favorite coffees and
4:27
just discussions about how we feel about the industry.
4:30
And it's just a really nice place to share. So
4:33
I hope you enjoy this listener Q and a,
4:35
and if you want more episodes like this, I
4:38
hope you'll join us in Patrion because we
4:40
do these chats a few times a month in English
4:42
and in Spanish and for multiple times
4:44
zones. So there should be something in
4:46
that configuration that works for you. And
4:49
if that still doesn't work. Then
4:51
before an episode or before
4:53
a discord live session, I
4:56
just take general questions. And if you can't
4:58
make it live, I'll usually answer your question during
5:00
the session, and then you can watch the replay whenever
5:03
you want. Okay.
5:05
I think that's it for the intro. Let's get into
5:07
your questions. Our
5:11
first question comes from Alex.
5:13
He asks. Are there any
5:16
insights Lucio would be able to share
5:18
on the modern with quotes
5:20
and quotations, the modern wave of processing.
5:23
That seem to involve quite wild temperature
5:25
swings, AKA thermal shock.
5:28
And while it's less fermentation based, there
5:30
seems to be equal amounts discussed about
5:33
how the drying is modulating to
5:35
fix again in quotations, the
5:37
aromatics to the green coffee. Seems
5:40
a lot of terminology is thrown around sometimes
5:43
in seemingly contradictory ways for these
5:45
proprietary processes. And it would be super
5:47
interesting to hear Lucy his take on it. Alex,
5:50
I think this is really great. And. Okay.
5:52
So I'm going to try to avoid my usual
5:54
thing where I take one question and turn it into
5:57
an entire episode or multiple episodes,
5:59
because this one's quite fascinating, but
6:01
I want to honor. The
6:03
spirit of this episode, which is
6:05
trying to get through your listener questions and
6:07
give you maybe some way to think about
6:09
it. If not necessarily. I exhaust
6:12
the entire topic. So
6:14
I do think that this one requires a little bit of
6:16
background in case you haven't heard of this
6:18
process of Thermo shock. And.
6:22
Alex's right. I think one thing to really keep
6:24
in mind is that Thermo shock is not a type
6:27
of fermentation. Eight days and
6:29
method used in processing, in conjunction.
6:32
With a fermentation. And
6:34
this process involves exposing
6:36
coffee at any state. So you
6:38
can use their most shock in the cherry stage in
6:41
the parchment stage. And like you said, even
6:43
in the drying stage, so it's not restricted
6:45
to any one part of processing. It's
6:47
a method that you can. Apply
6:50
to the coffee fruit. The
6:53
coffee parchment or the seed
6:55
at any time. And it involves both extreme,
6:58
cold or extreme heat. One
7:00
place where. I could see
7:02
this making sense, is it, this
7:05
is a method used in other agricultural
7:07
processes. In. An
7:09
agribusiness in general. So something like
7:11
pasteurization or blanching. Pasteurization
7:15
is carried out in milk and wine and beer
7:17
and sauces and fruit juices. So this is something
7:19
very common to help stabilize and
7:22
reduce the microbial activity.
7:25
In those food products. So in
7:27
coffee, we haven't needed to do this
7:29
from a food safety point of view. We don't
7:31
need to pasteurize our coffee
7:33
because we. Do that when we roast
7:35
it, we have a heat step. We have a heat
7:37
kill step already built in. So
7:40
this additional heat for the fruit.
7:43
Hasn't traditionally been necessary for food
7:45
safety. However, now it's becoming
7:47
interesting for this idea
7:49
that Alex mentioned about quote, fixing
7:52
flavors about using heat to.
7:55
Trap some of the flavors that we're
7:57
making in fermentation. So
7:59
I guess what I want to say about The
8:01
process of adding
8:03
heat to cherries to reduce the microbial
8:06
load. I think it's an incredibly effective
8:08
method if that's why you're using it.
8:10
So I think being aware of why
8:12
Thermo shock is being. Used
8:15
is a good thing to keep in mind it. It
8:17
sounds really cool. It looks really cool on a label.
8:20
But it could be the opposite
8:23
of what you think. Right. So if you're
8:25
seeing Thermo shock and you think, oh, wow, maybe
8:27
this is going to be an extra. Flavorful
8:30
and extra interesting process, maybe.
8:32
Or maybe not, maybe the Thermo shock was used
8:35
to reduce the microbial load to
8:37
eliminate some of that microbial
8:39
activity and maybe create more of a flat
8:42
or. You know, plane profile. Or
8:45
it could be the first step using conjunction
8:48
with inoculation. So when you're adding
8:50
each and you're inoculating for your coffee,
8:53
it really helps your fermentation
8:55
to be secure if you're eliminating
8:57
the competition before you do your inoculation.
9:00
So Thermo shock could be used to,
9:02
you know, Really superheat
9:04
the cherries. For a very short
9:06
time. I think that's another thing to keep in mind
9:09
is for pasteurization in new it's high
9:11
temperature, short time. So maybe you
9:13
would be doing something like 80 degrees Celsius
9:15
for 30 seconds, right? You want it to be really
9:17
short, which means you need very specialized
9:20
equipment to be able to do that. So,
9:23
this is not. Traditionally
9:25
a cheap or a super accessible
9:27
step to a lot of coffee producers. You need
9:29
to have access to energy and you need
9:31
specialized equipment to. Achieve
9:34
something like this. But
9:36
again, I think it's really effective if we're reducing
9:38
the microbial load. So then we can inoculate
9:40
with something else. Something else
9:43
that I think is worth considering
9:45
is at this high temperature will also denature
9:48
or inactivate enzymes. Enzymes
9:50
potentially like a pectineus that helped
9:53
break down the mucilage and make it more accessible
9:56
for the fermentation. So you
9:58
could potentially notice maybe a
10:00
slowing down of the fermentation or
10:03
maybe reduced. Efficiency,
10:05
not that your fermentation won't work, but it's
10:07
something that if you're like, oh, I started
10:09
to do this temperature treatment and now my fermentations
10:12
are behaving a little bit differently. It
10:14
could be because of denaturing, those enzymes.
10:17
But. It could
10:19
not happen Because you are.
10:23
Producing the competition. And so
10:25
if you're inoculating with another microbe,
10:27
you could even see more increased activity
10:29
because you've eliminated your competition.
10:32
So I think this is, you know, not
10:35
a particularly satisfying answer because
10:37
microbiology is complicated, but those are
10:39
some of the things that I, I want you to think about
10:41
or the questions that you can ask sort of like, why
10:43
is this Thermo shock happening? Is
10:45
it too. Again, reduce.
10:47
So microbial activity to then inoculate
10:50
with something else. anD that's on the heat side.
10:52
So the other. End
10:55
of this could be cold, extreme,
10:58
cold. This is often used in
11:00
this, in this combination. to do
11:02
a high temperature short time. Treatment,
11:05
you would need to increase the temperature really
11:07
quickly for those 30 seconds, and then you need
11:09
to bring it back down. So it kind of has
11:11
to go hand in hand. You can't really just do the one
11:14
heat treatment and then not do an immediate
11:16
cold treatment because you have to bring the temperature
11:18
of the coffee back down as quickly as possible. So
11:21
that you don't damage the seat. So
11:23
this is the balance that we need to have
11:25
when we think about Thermo shock is that we want
11:27
to have high heat so
11:29
that we're affecting our microbes
11:31
and our enzymes in our coffee,
11:34
but not so much heat that we are. Killing
11:37
the germ that we are destroying.
11:40
The viability of the seat,
11:42
because if you kill the seed, Then
11:45
you get faded and
11:47
you are destroying the shelf life of your coffee.
11:49
So if you're not careful, so this is a
11:51
tool to be used with a lot of care,
11:53
because For the benefit of more flavor
11:56
or a more efficient process, you
11:59
could be compromising the shelf life of your
12:01
coffee. It'll taste really great. But
12:03
it'll fade, in a month it'll,
12:05
Get stale very quickly. I think another
12:07
thing I will share especially in the
12:09
drawing. Part is that we know
12:11
very well from studies done by
12:13
Flavio Bahram in Brazil. That
12:16
when you have coffee drying
12:18
at the temperatures above 60 Celsius.
12:21
They have microscope pictures
12:23
of cells have coffee seeds,
12:26
and you can see the cells and the ones
12:28
that were dried at around 40 degrees
12:30
Celsius. Our round
12:32
cells completely intact and.
12:34
They look like a normal cell when the temperature
12:37
has gone up to around 60
12:39
degrees Celsius. Then under the
12:41
microscope, you can see that these cells have
12:43
completely burst. It looks like, you
12:45
just. He had a bag full of groceries
12:47
and you just spilled it and everything just kind of rolling
12:49
around on the floor. So you can see that
12:52
the cells have spilled their contents because
12:54
the heat was too much at damage. The structure.
12:57
And that also, releases your volatile
12:59
compounds so that they're not available, for
13:01
your flavor. And then it also exposes
13:03
some oil so that you have more
13:05
exposure to oxygen oxidation,
13:08
therefore going stale
13:10
and branded. So
13:12
we know that in drying these extreme
13:14
temperatures are much more
13:16
of a concern for the longevity.
13:19
I think you have much more flexibility if you're doing
13:21
these heat treatments in cherry for
13:23
a short time for the microbial purpose.
13:26
So when I'm working with my clients, this
13:28
is not a process that I would recommend
13:30
that they start using. If
13:32
it's not something that's already in part of their protocol.
13:35
But for example, I do have one client that
13:37
uses Thermo shock that they started
13:39
before I arrived. And
13:41
they have to do it. They do cold storage
13:44
because are transporting their Sherry's from a,
13:47
a farm that's very far away. So it takes several
13:49
hours to get to their processing facility.
13:51
So they move it in a refrigerated truck.
13:53
So they have cherry that's incredibly
13:55
cold. And that's great because
13:57
you're preserving it during that stage. I think that's
14:00
really helpful. So they're trying
14:02
to also do it
14:04
from a microbiological point of view. They're trying
14:06
to prevent the microorganisms. That
14:08
are on the coffee cherries from
14:10
starting to activate before they can get it into
14:13
their facility. But then once they get
14:15
into their facility, then it warms up. They
14:18
have a long fermentation. And then because
14:21
they have these bioreactors that
14:23
they are able to control the temperature.
14:26
They can do maybe a. Let's
14:29
say 30 or 40 hour fermentation.
14:32
And then they can crash the tank. So this is
14:34
something that's used in beer and in wine where
14:36
you can have a fermentation happening at room temperature,
14:39
and then you chill it to freezing. You
14:41
don't want to freeze the liquid, but you chill it significantly
14:44
so that you crash the fermentation to let you can pause
14:47
it and then get to it when
14:49
you have more time. So it's kind of like, Yeah,
14:51
push pushing the pause button. And
14:54
this allows them to work. More
14:57
at their own pace. So we know that a lot of
14:59
coffee producers who don't have access to.
15:01
You know, this type of technology can get very
15:03
stressed because you're like, I need to deal with this right now.
15:06
And maybe you don't have enough workers or
15:09
it's, Four o'clock in the morning and nobody's
15:11
there and you may be miss your window. So,
15:13
this is a really wonderful tool to
15:15
be able to control the temperature of your fermentation
15:17
so that you can work on it. At
15:20
your leisure. However, my concern
15:22
was with the longevity of their seat. If
15:24
they're kind of freezing the cherry first and then getting
15:27
warm for your fermentation and they crashed
15:29
the tank. That's a lot of
15:31
physical stress. We know that when
15:33
water freezes, we get that expansion
15:36
and then contraction, when we
15:38
melt again. So, I'm not saying
15:40
that they're necessarily freezing
15:42
the cherry, but I think that when you're going
15:44
with extreme, cold and hot and then extreme cold,
15:46
again, you're stressing out the
15:48
cellular structure of the seed and that
15:50
stress. Compromises the longevity
15:53
of your seat. And maybe
15:56
that doesn't matter because you're able to sell
15:58
your coffee really quickly. Maybe you don't
16:01
even export it. Maybe it's consumed domestically, so
16:03
it doesn't have to travel and maybe you'll never notice a problem.
16:06
So it's not that it's bad.
16:08
It's that? It depends. Where is this coffee going?
16:10
Is this process going to help?
16:12
Or are you potentially compromising, for
16:15
a goal? Is this a coffee that needs to be exported
16:17
to Australia? And it's going to take, you know, five
16:19
months to get there. I don't think that
16:21
Thermo shock is a good. Method.
16:24
With coffees that need to survive
16:26
long travel distances
16:29
or that you want to house. For
16:31
a long time, let's say you want to buy a coffee and be able
16:33
to offer it. In your cafe
16:35
for a couple of months, four months,
16:37
six months, something like that. I wouldn't
16:40
look to a thermal shock coffee for that.
16:42
Or I'd be wary of that, but if you. Don't
16:45
have that issue. If you know, you're going to consume it right away,
16:47
or if it's pretty sold, then I think Thermo
16:49
shock is a really interesting tool to use.
16:52
Don't think we know enough about how it behaves
16:54
in coffee. And I think that we're getting
16:56
a little too excited, borrowing. This
16:58
method from again, beer and wine
17:00
and other industries. I do not
17:03
encourage temperature shocks as a tool
17:05
for my clients, but again, my goal
17:07
is not to create crazy coffee. I do
17:09
not create competition coffee. I'm
17:11
not interested in that type. I'm interested
17:14
in creating stable, homogenous and consistent
17:16
coffee. So for me, Thermo shock
17:19
is a high risk strategy. To
17:21
potentially fix some flavors,
17:23
increase some flavors. But ultimately
17:25
I think it really compromises the longevity
17:28
of that coffee. So just paying attention
17:30
to that. The
17:34
next question is from Natalia. Totally
17:36
different change of. pace.
17:39
She asks, how do you make your morning coffee?
17:41
Maybe it was answered before. So
17:44
I don't think I have ever talked about how I prepare
17:47
my coffee on the podcast, which I
17:49
think is a fair question
17:51
too. Ponder because
17:54
we talk about coffee. So I guess I
17:56
will share with you what I do. So
17:59
when I first started drinking coffee, seriously.
18:02
In 20 14, 20 15. I
18:04
started with a baby Cemex because
18:06
I was allured by the beauty of the brewer.
18:09
I thought it was so cute. I was eventually
18:11
talked out of this method by my friend, Tyler
18:13
Duncan. Who used to be at Topeka.
18:16
Roasters. But more recently started coracle
18:18
instant coffee. But anyway, Tyler.
18:20
He pointed out to me that the dramatic
18:23
angle of the baby Cemex, it's a very steep
18:25
angle. It's a very, thin, narrow cone.
18:28
Made my brewing more variable. And
18:30
I'm all about consistency. So as soon as he
18:32
said that, I. Decided
18:35
to look into other methods. And I started
18:37
using the V6. Pour over pretty much exclusively.
18:40
And there was a phase during our heavier
18:42
travel days that Nick and I had a
18:44
very long arrow press phase. So
18:47
I've gone through a couple of different brewers. I'm not
18:49
that interested in trying like the newest and
18:51
latest brewer. So it's not like I have a
18:53
ton of experience with all
18:56
of the brewers out in the, in the market.
18:58
I said, as you guys probably know, I'm I'm
19:00
most of a minimalist. I like to not have
19:03
that much gear. But I have
19:05
tried the clever dripper, which I also really like. But
19:07
today where we've landed in our house,
19:10
We tend to go back and forth between two. Right
19:12
now we have the Kalita wave and the origami
19:15
pour-over. So I definitely
19:17
love the ritual. I always make my coffee on
19:19
a scale. I have a gooseneck kettle. And
19:22
it's also really important for me, that
19:24
glassware that I drink out of. So
19:26
I like to drink out of like a heavy ceramic
19:29
mug. I like a nice stoneware.
19:31
I do sometimes drink
19:33
out of the sense cup. The sense is
19:35
this really beautiful, delicate class.
19:38
I love a thin lip. It's really beautiful. It makes coffee
19:41
look beautiful. And sometimes I'll,
19:43
I'll drink out of that. But I find
19:45
myself more and more going back to like
19:47
a heavy ceramic. Feeling, I like having
19:49
that kind of weight. In my hand. I
19:52
will also share that I am not an
19:54
espresso person. I have not yet learned
19:56
the art of enjoying and espressos. I
19:59
like my poor overs Next
20:03
question is from BCU. It
20:06
says, my question is purely consumer facing.
20:08
As I don't have much knowledge on what goes on behind
20:10
the scenes. Just really curious out
20:12
of all of the labels that roasters are putting on
20:14
their bags, which one are the ones that are really
20:16
important. Well, if you
20:18
listen to episode 59 the
20:20
episode right before this one, I actually go
20:22
into this in quite a lot of detail.
20:25
It's probably like a 20 minute answer
20:27
on what I personally think is important.
20:30
On a coffee label or what I look for.
20:32
Because there can be. You
20:35
know, it almost looks like the. The credits rolling
20:37
at the end of a movie where you just have all
20:39
of this information kind of rolling by. And for
20:42
me, I think that it can create
20:44
a lot of noise when, you
20:46
know, we don't, we don't know what we're looking at or just this,
20:49
this flooding of information.
20:51
Which. What I mentioned in that
20:54
episode is that I think that that
20:56
was very important to start to differentiate
20:58
specialty coffee from commodity coffee
21:00
to say, You know, this isn't anonymous.
21:03
Random coffee. Look at all this information
21:05
that, that I, the roaster know about this
21:08
coffee, so that you know, that it's you know, it,
21:10
it gives this nod
21:12
towards traceability, like this
21:14
isn't anonymous coffee, because look at all this information
21:16
I know about it. But I don't necessarily
21:19
think that's helpful for a consumer.
21:21
Like, I think that's good to have, and I think that's a good
21:23
philosophy to have, but
21:25
I don't think it translates to people just
21:28
trying to learn what kind of coffee they like.
21:30
I think it can be really overwhelming and I think it
21:32
can be confusing. So
21:34
I much prefer simpler
21:37
labels. I like to have You
21:40
know, Identifying markers
21:42
so that you, as a consumer can know what to look
21:44
for, if you want to explore and repeat.
21:46
So, you know, what I mentioned in that episode
21:48
is I think it's really important to talk about.
21:51
The producer, like the chain of custody,
21:53
the provenance of this coffee. So it's not
21:55
just the roaster, but it also talks
21:57
about who had custody of the coffee
21:59
before the roaster did. I think that's important.
22:02
As well as the variety plant
22:04
genetics, I want to see the cultivar on
22:06
there because then you start to learn too as a consumer.
22:09
Oh wow. The last 10
22:11
coffees that I've liked are really good and they're all were born.
22:14
So then, you know I'm pretty safe.
22:16
If I find another board one. I
22:19
think it's also important to have the
22:21
processing. And then that's why that episode
22:23
got really long is talking about. How
22:25
much processing information is important,
22:27
but just a general guideline. I'm okay.
22:29
If it says washed, you know, or dried
22:31
in fruit, like just something that says, how
22:33
were these cherries treated? So
22:36
to review, I like to know. Who.
22:40
Grew the coffee. Where
22:42
was it grown as specifically as you can
22:44
sort of in the region? Like what, what
22:46
part of the world? And not just country, but
22:48
if you can get region specific or sub
22:51
region, I think that's really helpful. And.
22:54
The plant variety so that you know, that genetics
22:56
that you're drinking and then the processing,
22:58
I think with those four. Simple
23:01
like that gives you a good baseline. Personally
23:04
don't buy coffees, looking on altitude,
23:07
which is what the last episode was about.
23:09
So I don't think that's necessary information
23:11
to put on the bag. And then I am also
23:13
not looking for any certifications.
23:16
So my. Buying
23:18
decision is not swayed by
23:21
organic. Fair trade
23:23
bird friendly. Carbon neutral.
23:26
Women powered coffee, any of those things,
23:29
not that those things aren't important and aren't good.
23:31
And are not things worthy of being supported.
23:33
I'm just sharing with you what I look for when I buy
23:35
a coffee. So if I have to coffee side
23:38
by side, and one says, Fair
23:40
trade. And the other one doesn't that doesn't change my
23:42
purchasing decision. I look at those other
23:44
things first. And
23:46
then if there's maybe some other additional
23:48
marker. Sure. I maybe
23:51
consider it. But I think that most of
23:53
those. Systems are poorly
23:55
regulated. Kind of there's
23:57
so much. Politics. Involved
24:00
in that. That it's
24:02
not how I make a purchasing decision
24:04
for coffee, and it's not necessarily
24:06
what I want to see at the expense
24:08
of the other information. But
24:10
what I think is interesting about this conversation that
24:12
maybe I didn't explore too much in the last episode
24:15
is that. I think,
24:17
not just looking at what the label says,
24:19
but looking at. What a roaster
24:22
decides to put on the label, tells you a lot
24:24
about their values and tells you a lot about
24:26
what they find important. It's more of a psychology
24:28
exercise to see if you know, what
24:30
they think is important, aligns with what
24:32
you feel is important. And I guess
24:34
just that feeling of like, do you feel good
24:36
buying this coffee? And that's, that's so
24:39
personal. And that's so arbitrary.
24:42
But yeah. I guess that's all I have to
24:44
say about that. This
24:49
next question comes from Margo. Margo
24:52
asks. How do you know when you've hit the
24:54
one for both fermenting and roasting?
24:56
It seems like there's a lot of tinkering done on
24:58
both profiles. When do you know that? You've
25:01
nailed it. Are there ways to get
25:03
to that point other than pure small batch experimentation.
25:07
This is also a question that could really
25:09
go into philosophy for, for a while.
25:11
I don't think there is a single the one
25:14
coffee fermentation, or even, you
25:16
know, a roasting profiles soulmate.
25:19
I don't think that there is just one option. I
25:22
think that there are many options. And I think
25:24
it's more about reverse engineering.
25:26
So thinking about what are our needs and
25:29
then how do we accommodate them? So
25:31
for fermentation. I'll take
25:33
a fermentation example. First let's say I
25:35
have a specific client in mind. Or
25:37
a certain market. Like, let's say I want to
25:39
sell to Korea or Dubai.
25:42
And I know in general,
25:44
those flavor profiles, those markets,
25:46
like kind of the extreme, fruity boozy
25:48
flavors. So then I think about
25:51
in those situations, my perfect fermentation
25:53
would be one where we play up the temperature
25:56
extremes and maybe go for
25:58
extended times. Or
26:00
the opposite. Let's say I know that my
26:02
clients don't like boozy,
26:04
whiny whiskey characters in their
26:06
coffee. I know that they like more of a classic
26:08
profile. I would then look for
26:11
reduced temperatures in my fermentation.
26:13
I would reduce the oxygen contact during
26:15
the fermentation. And I would not
26:17
go for extended times. I would stay within
26:20
maybe that 30 to 40 hours
26:22
of contact time. So
26:25
in those cases, the one really
26:27
depends on who you're trying to target
26:29
and who's going to ultimately be buying or
26:31
drinking this coffee. So I would first
26:33
figure out what kind of coffee you want
26:35
to make. And then I would have worked backwards.
26:38
And you can reverse engineer a fermentation
26:40
in this way. So you definitely don't have
26:42
to do what most producers do, which
26:44
is just try a bunch of different things.
26:47
Throw spaghetti at the wall cup,
26:49
a bunch of coffees, and then, you know, sort
26:51
of see where you land. You can be much more thoughtful
26:53
and much more methodical when you have some of these.
26:56
fermentation principle, some of these like little
26:58
basics of temperature time. anD
27:01
then oxygen contact. So you can reverse engineer.
27:04
The flavor profile that you're trying to go
27:06
for. It still matters. What genetics
27:08
is still matters. What. Coffee,
27:11
you are fermenting with these methods
27:13
because that'll also help kind of
27:15
accentuate kind of like turn up or turn down
27:17
the volume. But in general,
27:19
you don't have to go into a fermentation blind,
27:22
which is what most coffee producers do.
27:24
Let's say, however, you don't know your
27:26
target, you, you don't know what you're
27:28
headed for. Maybe you're a producer who
27:31
doesn't have the luxury to pick and choose your clients
27:33
this way yet. And you don't know what they
27:35
want. And in that case, I would keep
27:37
the flavor profile more classic
27:40
so that you can cast a wider net. If
27:42
you don't have a client yet making
27:45
a really polarizing coffee flavor profile.
27:48
Is more risky. And
27:50
maybe that's your personality, you know, high risk,
27:52
high reward, but most of the coffee producers
27:54
I have met and have worked with are highly
27:56
risk averse. So playing
27:58
it safe is still really the best advice
28:01
if you don't already have a customer. In
28:03
that case, I would, you know, design
28:05
a processing protocol that is really easy
28:07
to replicate and then execute. And.
28:11
You know, maybe that doesn't give you a crazy wild
28:13
flavor that you can get a really high price
28:16
for. But if you make a process that is
28:18
simple. Then, if you find
28:20
a client that likes it, you can easily scale
28:22
up. They're like, oh, I like these five bags next
28:24
year. I'd like to get 20 or 50. And
28:27
you feel confident that you can do that? And
28:29
if you also keep the process simple if
28:32
the prices are fluctuating, at least
28:34
you can control your overhead a little bit more. At
28:36
least you haven't purchased a bunch of tanks
28:38
or a bunch of microbes or
28:41
a, you know, invested in making a 100
28:43
hour process and you have to pay more people to work
28:45
a hundred hours versus doing a 20 hour fermentation.
28:48
If we keep it simple, we can also, you know,
28:50
reduce the cost of production in these
28:52
uncertain times. So
28:55
that's my general advice. I would answer
28:57
this a little bit. Differently
28:59
for a traditional coffee producer.
29:02
But because I know Margo, I know where
29:04
this question is coming from. Margo
29:06
has the ability to process
29:09
and roast coffee in a very close loop
29:11
that vertical integration, which is very rare
29:13
for most coffee producers. Few
29:15
producers have the ability to, roast
29:18
profile their coffee. But I know that Margot does.
29:20
So. She's right. There's a lot of tinkering
29:23
done on both processing and roasting
29:25
and there are an infinite.
29:28
Combination of this fermentation
29:30
with this roast profile. So
29:32
to not drive yourself crazy.
29:34
I wouldn't do what most people
29:36
do, which is again, this experimenting
29:39
blindly and tweak. That's how you end up
29:41
with. You know, 40 combinations and
29:43
total overload. So I
29:45
would use the guiding principle
29:48
of what do you like to drink?
29:51
I remember hearing. This about
29:53
music. I, I wish I could remember who said this.
29:56
But it's stuck in my brain as the
29:58
advice with this. Artist.
30:00
I gave, and it said never sing a song you don't
30:02
like, because it might end up being a hit.
30:05
And you'll be stuck singing the damn thing forever.
30:08
So I would give the same advice for
30:10
your coffee, with your coffee profile.
30:13
Look for something or think about something,
30:15
making something that you like and that you
30:17
like to drink because you should
30:19
be the master of quality control. If
30:22
you personally, don't like boozy whisky
30:24
coffees. How are you going to taste 10
30:26
versions of a boozy whiskey flavor, coffee,
30:28
and decide which one is good. All right.
30:30
So then it's up to other people
30:32
to tell you what's good. And then you don't have
30:35
that. That control
30:37
you don't have that. Judgment
30:39
in your hands. So,
30:41
if you make something that you like and
30:44
that you like to drink, you will know
30:46
when it's getting better. You will
30:48
know when you're getting closer
30:50
or further away. And if you're headed
30:53
in the right direction or if you're kind
30:55
of lost in a spiral somewhere, so.
30:59
I think that's. Something that's missing.
31:01
From a lot of coffee producers, you know, they ask
31:03
me what other people want.
31:05
And I'm like, well, That's
31:07
really hard to know what other people want.
31:10
But if you know what you want, then you have that guiding
31:12
light. So, yeah, my best advice
31:15
is make something that you like. So that
31:17
you are the best judge.
31:19
kNowing what direction that you're heading in. Okay,
31:25
this next question is from shepherd. Shepherd
31:28
asks. Okay. I
31:30
got something that is bothering me, listening
31:32
to it a third time in episode 30,
31:34
when it's about sugar, moving out when drying
31:37
on raised beds. The statement
31:39
is that sugar is moving out
31:41
in the same direction as water. Out.
31:44
But since the water is not really flowing,
31:46
but evaporating, if that's what's happening.
31:48
Shouldn't the sugar stay, where it is while
31:51
the water is leaving. I'm
31:54
really glad that shepherd ask this clarifying
31:56
question, because I definitely feel
31:59
bad that it was not clear in
32:01
the original episode and that other of you
32:03
were. Confused about this
32:06
concept. What I meant to say.
32:08
What it should be saying is that. If
32:10
sugar was moving. And so this is
32:12
the idea of honeys
32:15
and dry process coffees being
32:17
sweeter because the mucilage on the outside
32:20
is. Infusing into
32:22
the seed is going into the seed it's it's
32:24
sweeter because of that reason. I
32:27
said if that was happening, if sugar
32:29
was able to move across those boundaries,
32:31
which it's not too gross as much
32:34
too large of a molecule to move,
32:36
to permeate the the cells of the
32:38
parchment and get into the seed. So that
32:40
doesn't happen, but if it did.
32:43
Then the only direction would actually be out,
32:46
not in. So the point shepherd
32:48
is that it doesn't happen in either case.
32:50
Sugar is not moving into
32:52
the seed. And it's also
32:55
during drying, not moving out
32:57
of the seed because as you're saying, yes, the
32:59
water is leaving very gently. So
33:01
the sugar is not. Flowing
33:03
out in that sense, cause
33:06
sugar can't move, but if it could, it
33:08
would be more logical because sugar is
33:10
hygroscopic attracted to water. It
33:12
would be more logical that the sugar would move out.
33:14
Then it would move in. So my point
33:16
is that. a nonsensical
33:19
reason. It's a nonsensical concept
33:22
that sugar would get into the seed during a honey
33:24
or a dry process. Coffee. Because
33:27
that's not how physics works. But
33:30
there is a point when sugar does
33:32
flow out of the seed and that is not
33:35
during drying, but during the fermentation.
33:37
So a wet process coffee, if it's submerged.
33:40
Underwater and it's completely. Surrounded
33:43
by water. Then the glucose
33:45
and fructose that's in the green seed does
33:48
tend to flow out because it is attracted
33:50
to water. And in that case, there's a lot of water
33:52
available in a submerged fermentation
33:55
tank. And in studies, they've
33:57
seen that the sugar can drop up to
33:59
90%. So if you have
34:01
the same coffee and you process one
34:03
and you split the lot and you process it as a
34:05
wet process, Pulped submerged underwater.
34:07
And then you do the other one dry process
34:09
or a honey. when you analyze
34:12
the contents. You can see that the wet
34:14
process has up to 90%
34:16
last glucose and fructose inside the seed.
34:19
So we know that submerged
34:21
allows the sugar to come out.
34:24
However, I don't want people to be alarmed with that
34:26
dramatic number of 90%, less sugar,
34:28
because we know that wet process coffees are
34:30
not 90% less sweet.
34:33
There's a lot of other. Components
34:35
that go into making a wet process, coffee,
34:37
sweet. You know, in our fermentation we're
34:39
making polysaccharides. So we get
34:41
that heaviness of the molecules. We get
34:43
that syrupy flavor, we're creating
34:45
different esters and thiols so you get that fruity
34:48
component. So if you have something that
34:50
tastes fruity. And has
34:52
thickness and weight like. Syrup
34:55
or honey then. Your brain fills in
34:57
that sweetness. Your brain says this coffee is sweet,
35:00
even if you don't necessarily have that sugar
35:02
in there, but it's just interesting to note.
35:04
That if, if you're a scientist and you have access
35:07
to this equipment, And
35:09
where you can measure. The sucrose
35:11
and the seed you can knowing
35:13
absolutely nothing about the coffee, even not
35:15
even looking at it visually, just by looking at a printout
35:18
of the contents of the seed. You can
35:20
tell how this coffee was processed. You
35:22
can be blindly given some
35:25
green seeds. Run them in your machine
35:27
and say, ah, this coffee was a
35:29
natural dry process, or this coffee was
35:31
wet process just by how much sugar
35:33
is in the seed. I think that's a really, really interesting,
35:35
you don't have to look at it. You don't have to taste
35:37
it. By looking at it. I mean, looking at the
35:39
physical green, cause we know that a green seed
35:42
of a wash coffee looks different, physically
35:44
looks different than a dry process. Coffee.
35:47
So, I'm sorry if that was confusing. I hope
35:50
my answer right now. Wasn't even more confusing.
35:52
So I'll just summarize again. No
35:55
during drying the sugar does not come
35:57
out. While it's drying, but
35:59
during a wet submerged fermentation,
36:02
The sugar can come out because you need all
36:04
of that water to attract
36:06
the sugar, but not
36:08
to worry because it doesn't mean that you're
36:10
getting a less sweet tasting
36:13
coffee because there's other things that we can do
36:15
in a fermentation to compensate.
36:17
So it's not necessarily the sugar,
36:20
the sucrose and glucose and fructose that's giving us
36:22
sweetness. It's some of those other precursors
36:24
that we get in fermentation that make
36:26
our brain perceive sweetness. So
36:29
I think. Just to reiterate, we've
36:31
been looking at our sugar conversation in a
36:33
very simplistic way. It's much more
36:35
complicated, layered. But
36:37
that's good news because. We
36:40
don't have to be. Too worried about sugar.
36:42
We don't have to be so concerned about getting super
36:44
high bricks. In our cherry and
36:46
we don't have to be worried about doing a
36:49
wet process. That. As
36:51
pulling some of those sugars out of the seat, you
36:53
can still find a balance in any
36:55
process. You just have to keep these things in mind. Okay,
37:01
this next question is from Yani. The
37:04
question is I'm currently researching
37:06
the genealogy of citrus fruits. They
37:09
seem to have originated in Asia. How
37:11
do we get citrus flavors in coffee,
37:13
which is not something that originated in
37:15
Africa. So
37:18
I really like this question because it speaks
37:20
to a couple of different concepts
37:23
that are really. Easily confused.
37:26
For example. If I have
37:28
a yellow flower growing next to
37:31
a red flower, at some point they may
37:33
cross pollinate and we will get an orange
37:35
flower. Right. So we know plants growing
37:37
near each other can influence. These
37:40
characteristics, we can have a tall one and a
37:42
short one, and maybe they cross-pollinate and we
37:44
get a medium one, something like that. We
37:46
know that this happens in plants. But
37:49
flavors. In fermentation.
37:51
Don't work this way. That's not how the citrus
37:53
gets into the fruit. So a coffee
37:56
that has a flavor of citrus. Didn't
37:58
come by that citrus flavor because
38:00
there was a citrus nearby at
38:02
some point. It's because.
38:05
The citrus flavor is coming from
38:08
the microbes in the fermentation.
38:11
And that's how we can get some of these.
38:13
Interesting flavors. So for
38:16
example, A coffee cherry
38:18
will have all kinds of microbes on
38:20
its surface. We've talked about this many times and
38:22
that's coming from soil. That's coming. From,
38:25
other insects landing on it. It's coming from
38:27
our water supply. It's coming from just
38:29
all over the environment. There's all these microbes
38:32
that are already present on
38:34
coffee cherries. And these can include bacteria,
38:36
yeast, and fungi. So
38:39
we've talked many times on
38:41
this podcast about sacrificing
38:43
service EA because Saccharomyces is
38:45
the the geese that I use the most for.
38:48
My fermentations it's one that
38:50
has a lot of research done in terms of.
38:53
The metabolism of the yeasts and
38:55
the. Flavor compounds that they can
38:57
produce. And. We
39:00
know that sacrifices, certain strains
39:02
of sacrifice he's can produce a
39:04
terpene called limonene that
39:07
has the flavor descriptor
39:09
of citrus and sweet.
39:11
And there's another one. Another compound called
39:13
linalool. Which is
39:15
described as citrus, but a little
39:17
bit more floral. And
39:20
linalool. When I first smelled pure
39:23
linalool, to me, it smells like fruit
39:25
loops. There's this. Cereal.
39:28
With colorful cereal that smells like fruit loops
39:30
with that. Roma for me has always
39:32
been linalool. And
39:34
Saccharomyces when they're fermenting can
39:36
create both of these compounds, limonene,
39:38
citrus, and linalool. So citrus has also
39:41
a whole host of different compounds.
39:44
That give that, citrus aroma.
39:48
And not just Saccharomyces, but also
39:50
certain strains of lactobacillus can
39:53
also create lemonade and linalool
39:55
in their fermentation. So both yeast
39:58
and bacteria. Can create
40:00
these compounds and not
40:02
just that, but certain strains of
40:05
fungi can also
40:07
create these compounds. I
40:09
was reading a paper recently. It's all Lincoln
40:11
in the show notes. It's called. Relationship
40:13
between the different aspects related to coffee,
40:15
quality and their volatile compounds. So
40:18
this is, was new information for me. Cause I really
40:20
focus on yeast and bacteria. I
40:22
don't really focus on fungi because. They're
40:25
mostly associated with defects,
40:27
but you know, Not all
40:29
the time. For example, there is
40:31
a in rock coffee seeds that were inoculated
40:34
with penicillium. Um,
40:36
they identified volatile compounds that included
40:38
aldehyde. So to Okta NOL and detrimental.
40:41
Anil and ketones. And
40:44
these compounds are generally characterized
40:46
by citrus or fresh
40:48
notes. In each of these three categories,
40:51
there are. Strains. That
40:53
produce the citrus. Volatile
40:56
compound. So it doesn't come from.
40:59
Coffee being grown near or
41:02
by any citrus or maybe being crossed
41:04
with citrus some point and it's. Ancient.
41:06
History. But it has to do
41:08
with the microbes, present, able to do
41:10
the fermentation. I hope that's clear.
41:17
The next question is from follow. So
41:19
he says, I drank this mystery coffee in August.
41:21
You have to guess the country processing variety
41:24
as well as the flavors. So when Paula
41:26
got the coffee, it was a mystery. He
41:28
didn't know where the country or the processing
41:31
or, or whatever. He didn't know anything about it. And
41:33
then he found out after tasting
41:35
it and getting his first impression. That
41:38
it was a Caturra from Panama
41:40
Finca. And
41:42
he says the strange thing is that
41:44
the coffee had Ethiopian notes. So
41:47
his notes are lemon cooked,
41:49
lemon, green tea, honey. He
41:52
said, initially we tasted Mandarin, but
41:54
the coffee lost its flavors quickly after
41:56
roasting and it became flat in one month. First
41:59
question. Why did this prolonged
42:01
anaerobic honey processing create
42:03
wash notes. So why
42:05
did one process mimic
42:08
another one? And I think this also
42:10
has to do with his, his question about.
42:13
This is a coffee from Panama,
42:16
but for him it tasted like an
42:18
Ethiopian. So not only is
42:20
there a, an origin.
42:23
Kind of mimicry. Central American coffee
42:25
was mimicking an African coffee,
42:28
but also in the process, he was surprised
42:30
that this wash process was mimicking
42:33
a. honey process something else. So
42:36
that was the first question. And the second question is
42:39
can the process be the cause of its rapid
42:41
degradation or are there other
42:43
problems, for example, the air travel
42:45
of the green beans. So
42:48
I like this one because it also talks about this lemon.
42:51
Flavor compound the citrus note. That
42:54
is not the monopoly
42:56
of a certain variety. Or the
42:58
monopoly of a certain country.
43:01
Or the monopoly of a certain. Microbe
43:04
or process, right? Because bacteria
43:06
can produce citrus notes. Yeast can
43:08
produce a Trish notes. And now even
43:10
I just learned even fungi can produce
43:13
these citrus notes. So
43:15
wherever you have a combination
43:17
of. Some of these microbes,
43:19
you can create citrus notes. Anywhere
43:22
with any process. Meaning
43:25
you can have a dry process with these microbes.
43:28
And you can get a citrus characteristic or you can
43:31
do a wet process. With
43:33
these microbes and still get a citrus characteristic.
43:35
So Palo's question is how
43:37
did this central American mimic.
43:41
An African, or how did this wash to mimic
43:43
this other process? And
43:45
the fundamental like foundational
43:48
flaw in the, in the question
43:50
is a premise that flavor only
43:52
comes from a certain country or flavor only
43:55
comes from a certain process. Right.
43:57
Like a honey can only taste like
43:59
a honey because it was dried on raised
44:01
beds with its mucilage. Or
44:03
a wash can only taste like a washed.
44:06
If it was pulped and fermented submerged.
44:09
For a certain number of hours. So the flaw
44:12
is thinking that the flavor comes from
44:14
the process. Not
44:16
from the microbes that are present in
44:18
that process. That's how you can get this
44:20
crossing over of
44:23
flavor, like a flavor that's traditionally
44:26
associated with something and have
44:28
it show up somewhere else. So for example
44:31
one of our participants and FTC three,
44:34
Julie. As processing coffee
44:36
in Hawaii and on her farm,
44:38
they don't have a lot of access to water. So
44:40
she processes in a dry process
44:42
in a natural way, which we have in
44:44
association with natural coffees, being
44:47
heavy bodied, really fruity
44:49
and then very prone to getting,
44:51
you know, this whiny boozy over
44:54
ferment defect. So
44:56
she doesn't personally like that flavor profile.
44:59
She likes a wash profile, but she doesn't
45:01
have access to a lot of water. And she
45:03
also doesn't want to produce a coffee that uses
45:05
a lot of water because of ecological reasons.
45:08
So she's found a way to increase
45:10
the moisture. Of of
45:13
her cherries when she's fermenting in the beginning,
45:15
so that she's encouraging. The environment
45:17
more associated with a wet process.
45:20
So that her dry process coffees
45:23
actually tastes like washed. So,
45:26
you know, that's a mimicry there
45:28
just kind of using our environment.
45:30
But it works out because that's the coffee that she's trying
45:33
to make and she can make it with fewer resources.
45:35
So just because you do dry
45:37
it and cherry. Dry process.
45:40
Doesn't mean you have to always get the
45:42
flavors associated with that process.
45:45
If you know what you're tweaking. So I
45:47
hope this is wasn't more confusing, but the
45:49
point Paolo is that this is not
45:51
a fluke. This is not
45:54
something that is. Crazy.
45:57
This is something that's, anybody can do
45:59
is looking at the microbes that are
46:01
present in that environment. We can mimic something
46:03
else. And you can absolutely
46:05
have a central American coffee tastes like an
46:08
Ethiopian or an Ethiopian tastes like
46:10
a central American coffee. That's
46:13
that's very normal. And that is because
46:15
the flavor is not coming. Exclusively
46:17
from the location or the variety
46:19
or the process. It's a combination of
46:21
those things. Plus. An
46:24
addition of the microbes that are in
46:26
those environments. And
46:29
his second question. Can the process
46:31
be the cause of this rapid degradation?
46:34
Yes, this is what we were talking about at the
46:36
beginning of the episode where I have
46:38
seen this. Come up time
46:40
and time again and coffees that I've tasted. And
46:42
then in comments from, from you guys, Is
46:45
that you'll have these extended processes,
46:47
these Thermo shocks these anaerobics
46:50
500 hour fermentations and they have
46:52
really intense flavors and they're
46:54
impressive. But you almost
46:57
can't even finish a single bag before
46:59
the flavor has faded, so they're incredibly
47:02
volatile. They're incredibly
47:04
delicate flavors that can disappear
47:06
really quickly. you have this
47:08
trade-off and yes, maybe
47:10
because this copy had to travel far. Um,
47:13
by the time it got to Paulo in Italy,
47:15
most of the, you know, flavor
47:17
life or the longevity of that coffee.
47:20
Had been significantly reduced from the travel.
47:22
But I really don't think it's mostly
47:25
the travel because coffee. As we
47:27
know travels very far all the time. So
47:30
I think that a lot of the fade is more
47:32
coming from. The harsh
47:34
way that the coffee
47:36
is being treated, the processing
47:39
and not from a
47:41
little long. Travel times.
47:47
Thanks again for spending your time with me today. This
47:50
is a completely community driven effort.
47:52
I keep making new episodes because of the listeners
47:55
who joined Patrion to make it possible for me to
47:57
take time away from my consulting to
47:59
dedicate to podcasting. Your
48:01
membership and support of this podcast allowed
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us the funds to do our very first event
48:06
by, giving us money to rent a mill. We
48:08
needed to buy coffee cherry. We needed to buy
48:10
all of the equipment to start putting
48:12
together these fermentation events
48:14
that led us, Put a deposit down
48:16
on the hotel, work with a cater.
48:18
You know, none of that would've happened. The very first one
48:20
would have happened if we didn't have the support of
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listeners of this podcast. So I'm really grateful
48:25
that you guys listened to the podcast and
48:27
especially grateful for those listeners
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that take the extra step to become members
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because it supports all kinds of
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different activities that aren't just the podcast.
48:37
So if you like having a space like this, to
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48:42
education, I really hope that
48:44
you will consider joining Patrion. And
48:46
the link for that is in the show notes. If
48:49
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48:51
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49:01
Lucia is L E U X I
49:03
a. Thanks for listening.
49:06
And remember, life's too short to
49:08
drink bad coffee.
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