Why In The World Would Ulta Pause Its Target Expansion?

Why In The World Would Ulta Pause Its Target Expansion?

Released Saturday, 19th April 2025
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Why In The World Would Ulta Pause Its Target Expansion?

Why In The World Would Ulta Pause Its Target Expansion?

Why In The World Would Ulta Pause Its Target Expansion?

Why In The World Would Ulta Pause Its Target Expansion?

Saturday, 19th April 2025
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0:00

has announced that it's pausing its

0:02

stop shop and shop, not stop

0:04

and shop. which you could also

0:06

do, but it's pausing its shop

0:09

and shop expansion plans with Target.

0:11

According to Retail Dive, Alta Beauty's

0:13

new CEO, Keisha Steeleman told an

0:15

audience at JPMorgan's annual Retail Roundup

0:17

Conference last week that the beauty

0:19

retailer would hold steady at its

0:21

roughly 610 Target shop and shops

0:24

this year. The news comes after

0:26

the two retailers opened 101 Alta

0:28

Beauty at Target locations in 2024

0:30

and that back in Q2 last

0:32

year, Steeleman said that Alta

0:34

was still on track at that

0:37

point to meet their 800 store

0:39

commitment with Target. Chris, I

0:41

have to know, what do you

0:43

think here about Alta's decision to pause

0:45

this expansion at Target, and what

0:47

does this tell you about that relationship?

0:50

Oh, man, Ann. Yes, we're starting

0:53

off a little spicy. Yeah,

0:55

why not? April 16th's

0:57

podcast off spicy. It's after tax day, so why

0:59

not? Let's get a little hot under the collar

1:01

to start out. Well, my

1:03

big take here is that something definitely

1:05

feels a -miss, you know? I think

1:07

that's without a doubt. Yeah. And here's

1:10

why. I look back at Target's earnings

1:12

call because I was kind of

1:14

like, I thought they talked about beauty

1:16

performing pretty well. And yep, they

1:18

did. Here was a direct quote from

1:20

target CEO Brian Cornell right out

1:22

of the get go in that earnings

1:24

call. And I counted it folks

1:26

in the sixth paragraph of his 24

1:28

paragraph opening prepared remarks. That's how

1:30

early it was. He said quote, we

1:32

had an outstanding year in beauty.

1:34

We saw nearly 7 % sales growth

1:36

and share gains end quote. I'm

1:39

like, say what? And Ulta's pausing? So how

1:41

does that jive, Ed? I just don't get

1:43

it. I'm dying to hear what you think,

1:45

too. But it does make me wonder. It

1:47

makes me wonder a few things. So first

1:49

of all, how was that sales

1:51

performance that he quoted, weighted against the front end

1:53

of last year versus the back end? Because Target's

1:55

back end has not been that great. Number

1:58

two. the numbers I've seen

2:00

from our friends at

2:02

Placer AI recently show targets

2:04

traffic just fall sorry sorry

2:06

targets traffic traffic what the

2:08

hell is traffic at targets

2:11

traffic falling off an absolute cliff

2:13

in February now I haven't seen the March

2:15

numbers yet but you know that's particularly you

2:17

know correlated with their DEI stance. And

2:19

so God knows what Alta is seeing from

2:21

a traffic perspective. And Alta is probably

2:23

looking at this as well as all the

2:25

other macroeconomic factors that are playing into

2:27

things and saying like, I just, we just,

2:29

we just don't want to make investments right

2:31

now in race and, and, and sorry, Target, like

2:33

you're just not showing us what we need

2:35

to see from you to say, Hey, we want

2:37

to invest in 200 more stores, roughly with

2:39

you. So, so that can't be good for Target,

2:42

because that means some of the cop sales

2:44

that they were counting on from this rollout. is

2:46

not going to happen. And you know, Target, as

2:48

we talked about on the show, growth and

2:50

comp has been hard to come by. So and

2:52

it's some of the best analogy that I can make. I think

2:54

you're going to love this. You can't

2:56

buy me weight. You remember or can't

2:58

hardly wait. Remember the can't hardly wait.

3:01

Yes. And hardly wait. Not can't buy me

3:03

love. Can't hardly wait. You remember that movie?

3:05

Well, I remember Mike. You remember Mike Dexter.

3:07

Mike Dexter was like the cool guy. And

3:09

then Jennifer Love Hewitt dumps him. He's like

3:11

the bees knees. He's dating her. And

3:13

then he's left for the entire movie,

3:15

just wandering around the party, looking absolutely pathetic.

3:17

And I feel like Target is becoming

3:19

the Mike Dexter of retail now, potentially. Oh,

3:22

man. just saying, like, you know, we're

3:24

not going to go with you. Mike

3:26

Dexter? Which is kind of like a

3:28

kid's fate is kind of like, yeah, OK, whatever. You

3:30

know, they've got the pea catchers on the aisle. Like,

3:32

what's going on? Like, I don't want Target to be

3:34

the Mike Dexter of retail. But anyway, what do you

3:36

think? And so I told you I was going to

3:38

start off hot. I did. I tried to break the

3:40

analogy. Oh, my What do you

3:42

think? You brought it all. And how I'm

3:44

going to tie this together is still a

3:46

mystery to me. So stick with us, folks.

3:49

I'm not too surprised. I mean,

3:51

just given what you said in

3:53

traffic I mean, Alta and

3:55

Sephora are neck and neck trying

3:58

to gain share in as many

4:00

locations as they possibly can

4:02

right now. And I think

4:04

For me, it's really looking at Keisha

4:06

Seelman. She just took the reins

4:08

as CEO a few months ago, and

4:10

she's a tried and true ops

4:12

leader. I mean, she also worked at

4:14

Target herself before coming into role

4:16

at Alta. And so I trust that

4:19

she's making a move here that's

4:21

looking out for what's best for Alta

4:23

and the operations that they're doing

4:25

inside those Target stores. And my guess

4:27

is it's just, it's a perfect

4:29

storm of things happening all at

4:31

once. I think it's an uncertain

4:33

economy. lower football and also,

4:36

you know. Maybe she just

4:38

wants to give a little more germination time

4:40

to some of these concepts too like they

4:42

just rolled out a bunch more in 2024

4:44

like this is this is a big right,

4:46

right? And so I

4:48

think that maybe it's just like let's

4:50

pause Let's not invest a bunch of money

4:52

right now and just keep keep it

4:54

on going and then dealing with the issues

4:56

that may be arising Positive and negative

4:58

out of this and let's just be really

5:00

strategic and thoughtful about it And I

5:02

think the last part that I'll add especially

5:05

in a beauty category, Chris. I'm

5:07

wondering how much the impact

5:10

of a brand that's not doing

5:12

well in popular culture right

5:14

now and among some audiences that

5:16

are big beauty supporters and

5:18

big beauty spenders. I'm wondering

5:20

where you go with this. Wow. I'm wondering

5:22

what's happening in terms of, you know,

5:24

I mean, I look at just the

5:27

posts that have been, or the comments

5:29

that have been made on our target

5:31

posts alone. And I can only imagine

5:33

what's happening to Target and right now

5:35

and what, what feedback they're getting from

5:37

people. And maybe it's just also saying

5:39

like, Hey, let's like, let some of

5:41

this settle before we start going big

5:44

and we wrap our brands together so

5:46

closely. So I, those are just a

5:48

few things that I think could be

5:50

swirling around in the background. Ultimately, I

5:52

think it's, it's It's traffic to the stores and

5:54

whether or not that this is really going to continue

5:56

to make an investment for Alta. But I think

5:58

that some of those other things are also playing a

6:01

factor. Wow. Wow.

6:03

OK. So a couple, a couple, a

6:05

couple of questions for you in. Yeah.

6:07

So you interviewed Keisha Steeleman at Shop

6:09

Talk Fall, right? You last year on

6:11

stage. Yes. Yep. Yep, right before she

6:13

took the CEO role. Yes. I can't remember.

6:15

Was she in charge or did she oversee

6:17

the target rollout? She did. She did, right?

6:19

Yep. Okay. So this is a big deal

6:21

because she's, it's not like she's the new CEO

6:23

saying, I want to reevaluate this, you know,

6:25

like I'm going to come in, you know,

6:27

carte blanche, stop everything till I get a

6:29

sense of what's going on. No, she's been

6:31

intimately connected with this rollout for a long

6:33

time. So that makes this news even bigger

6:35

to me when you read between the headlines, right?

6:38

I agree. Wow. Yeah. Yeah, especially like I

6:40

said given her background like I think

6:42

she's everyone that I've talked to that's

6:44

worked for her it said that she's

6:46

you know a no BS kind of

6:48

person like either it's working or it's

6:51

not and we course correct immediately if

6:53

it's not and so that's that's where

6:55

I think like you're you're really looking

6:57

at some some big calls here from

6:59

Keisha about where the direction of the

7:01

company is going and what's best for Alta

7:03

so. And the

7:05

other yeah no and the other question I wanted to

7:07

ask you to and was. Can

7:10

you ever remember a time in the history

7:12

of Target with its brand and its brand

7:14

cachet where someone has announced a rollout and

7:16

then said, we're going to pull back and

7:18

not go forward with this? I cannot. Not

7:21

that I can think about the top of my

7:23

but 20 year history of being intimately

7:25

involved with that brand. Yeah. I

7:27

mean, this is a huge undertaking as

7:29

well. I mean, we're talking about complete

7:31

remodels of stores and things to support

7:33

this. So I think, you know, this

7:35

is really a unique case, but I

7:37

think that I have to time. That's

7:40

all the time. I think the remodeling

7:42

level, not to the level of

7:44

the altar. And location for

7:46

all to not for all to know not for all to

7:48

and the cost for all to too. But yeah. But people are

7:50

coming in and remind those stores all the time and paying

7:52

for the remodels all the time. But to your point, yeah, right.

7:55

Yeah, all to just doesn't see the value in it. So

7:57

yeah, easy. Wow. Yeah. Well, either

7:59

way, not good news for Target right

8:01

now on top of everything else they're dealing

8:03

with. Not the

8:05

news that you want to be going

8:07

out at this time. So no. Yes.

8:09

Around. So net net this story is

8:11

more about target to you than it is about Ulta. Do

8:13

you think that's because of our Minneapolis bias? Or do

8:15

you think that's really the case? I think it's actually really

8:18

the case. I do. We try not to be biased

8:20

on this show as much as possible. Yeah,

8:23

I would say it's more about what's happening with

8:25

Target than I think you're right. I think

8:28

it's more about what's happening with Target and Ulta's

8:30

response to it. Yeah. Wow.

8:32

Fascinating. Fascinating discussion. God, going

8:34

to be fun to watch this year play out.

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