Episode Transcript
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0:00
This is the reason interview with
0:02
Nicholasby. My guest today is Alton
0:04
Brown, who for years hosted Good
0:06
Eats on the Food Network and
0:09
married his interest in science to
0:11
the making of dinner. He's currently
0:13
touring the country and he's also
0:15
just published Food for Thought, a
0:18
fantastic collection of essays about food
0:20
culture and his life on and
0:22
off the screen. I talked with
0:24
him about how food transcends politics,
0:27
why fusion cooking isn't cultural preparation,
0:29
and why there's always room
0:31
for Jello salad on
0:33
his menu. Here is
0:36
the reason interview with
0:38
Alton Brown. Alton
0:40
Brown, thanks for
0:42
talking to Reason. Happy to be
0:44
here. Thanks for having me. So you
0:47
are on a farewell tour, and yeah,
0:49
and you also have a new book
0:51
ad. I want to ask, based on
0:53
some research I did, is this a
0:56
real farewell tour, or is this like
0:58
the Ramones and the Who, you know, at
1:00
various stages? No, no, I'm going to
1:03
stick the landing on this one. No,
1:05
this will be my last national tour,
1:07
for sure. This whole thing about living
1:09
on a bus for 13 weeks, it's
1:12
not nearly as glamorous issue, I think.
1:14
I you know I yeah I think
1:16
it would be but I guess a
1:18
little bit no it actually really isn't
1:21
if you could if you could take
1:23
a train like a you know your
1:25
own coach like Yeah, I was going
1:27
to say President Garfield in Wild Wild
1:30
West or something, right? Yeah, that would
1:32
be a different matter entirely. But then you wouldn't get
1:34
anywhere, right? You would be stopping in the middle of
1:36
nowhere half the time. I kind of like the idea
1:38
of that, though. If you had a train with a
1:40
couple of extra cars that could open up and you
1:43
would just do your show out in the middle of
1:45
a field on a site in some place and then
1:47
close it up and then close it up and go
1:49
to you know. That would be, you know, that might
1:51
heal the country, that might heal the country as well,
1:53
that might heal the country as well, that might heal
1:56
the country as well. So your book, Food for Thought,
1:58
I want to start, you open it, you... were
2:00
born in 1962, so you're towards
2:02
the end of the baby boom,
2:04
and you open talking about watching
2:07
TV and eating Captain Crunch. I
2:09
have two sons, I was born
2:11
in 1963, so I'm right there
2:13
with you. I reading that, it
2:15
was like reading Pruss talking about
2:17
a Madeline, I started having internal
2:19
bleeding on my mouth. What is
2:22
it about Captain Crunch? watching, you
2:24
know, in front of TV on
2:26
Saturday mornings. Why is that so
2:28
important? Well, I think that, you
2:30
know, no kid today, no child
2:32
today can understand the magic of
2:35
Saturdays. You know, it was... literally
2:37
a magical day. And you know,
2:39
if you were good, at least
2:41
in my household, you got complete
2:43
control of one of the TVs
2:45
for several hours. And so number
2:47
one, it was your first real
2:50
exposure to choice. It was also
2:52
first exposure to a form of
2:54
media that was completely out of
2:56
control as far as trying to
2:58
manipulate your young mind, which you
3:00
did. And Captain Crunch was just
3:02
a flavor. And as you pointed
3:05
out a moment ago when you
3:07
mentioned internal bleeding. The sense memory
3:09
of these hard little pillows shredding
3:11
the roof of your mouth, which
3:13
I enjoyed, I think I've always
3:15
liked a little pain with my
3:18
pleasure. And so I think that's
3:20
what makes that memory so potent.
3:22
That in the folding tray table.
3:24
Or is in the particular story
3:26
that I tell, also another shocking
3:28
element. Yeah, talk about the, I
3:30
think you said that it had
3:33
flowers on it and things like
3:35
that. Explain what a folding tray
3:37
table was. And in your household,
3:39
was it considered a break with
3:41
decorum to eat somewhere other than
3:43
the kitchen or dining table? Yes,
3:45
yes. It was a break with
3:48
decorum. It was special. It was
3:50
something that had to be kind
3:52
of, you had. apply for it
3:54
in advance like a passport. And
3:56
the only time that it was
3:58
unilaterally allowed in my house was
4:01
when either the Saturday morning or
4:03
if a Jacques Cousteau special was
4:05
on TV in the evenings, in
4:07
which case it was also allowed.
4:09
Yeah, it did seem like you
4:11
were kind of giving up as
4:13
a family in the late 60s,
4:16
early 70s, if your parents were
4:18
like, fuck it, we're eating in
4:20
front of the TV. No, we
4:22
had a little kitchenette, a little
4:24
dinette. area in our kitchen that
4:26
was really, you know, that is
4:28
where most meals were taken. And
4:31
we didn't break from that. You,
4:33
so describe a little bit, I
4:35
mean, you talk about the powerful
4:37
sensation of the way the milk,
4:39
and at one point you use
4:41
buttermilk in your. No, the whole
4:44
story is about the accidental grabbing
4:46
of buttermilk. That's the story. That's
4:48
the entire story. Is that. I
4:50
accidentally shoved it in my job
4:52
and it was buttermilk. And one
4:54
bottle had a blue label and
4:56
one bottle had a blue label
4:59
and one bottle had a blue
5:01
label and one bottle had a
5:03
blue label and one bottle had
5:05
a green label and one bottle
5:07
had a green label and I
5:09
thought the green was prettier. I
5:11
didn't for a moment at my
5:14
age considered that there would be
5:16
a differentiation of the product, which
5:18
of course there would be. And
5:20
so you know I poured on
5:22
my cereal and I poured on
5:24
my cereal and I poured on
5:27
my cereal. of that flavor. That
5:29
flavor. I didn't know there was
5:31
such a thing as buttermilk. I
5:33
mean, why would there be? How
5:35
could that exist? Why would it?
5:37
What was buttermilk used for other,
5:40
I mean, I guess you make
5:42
biscuits with it. I know it
5:44
was water on my household, but
5:46
my mother drank it. My mother
5:48
drank it. My mother was raised
5:51
on the stuff in the South
5:53
and enjoyed just consuming it. It
5:55
was a very different product back
5:57
then. You know, today's butterm buttermilk
5:59
is is far more like horrible
6:01
yogurt than it. actually better about,
6:04
but back then it was quite
6:06
sour. It wasn't viscous enough to
6:08
where I recognized it as a
6:10
different product, but the memory, he's
6:12
like the first time that I
6:15
was surprised by anything in a
6:17
negative way in life in such
6:19
a powerful way. But I think
6:21
the telling part of the story
6:23
is that revolting. as it was,
6:26
as shockingly revolting at it was,
6:28
after a few minutes I did
6:30
go back and taste it again.
6:32
And I think that that's what
6:34
kind of sets the pattern for
6:36
my own culinary life, is that
6:39
I will go back after the
6:41
strange flavor. And that was certainly
6:43
typical of my childhood. Is that
6:45
temperamental or is that something that
6:47
can be taught? Because you put,
6:50
I mean, throughout your entire body
6:52
of work, you put a lot
6:54
of... emphasis on things like curiosity
6:56
and trying things or seeking things
6:58
out. I think that I do
7:01
talk a lot about curiosity, which
7:03
I think is the most powerful
7:05
and most kind of positive human
7:07
emotion, so to speak. I don't.
7:09
I don't think that one needs
7:11
to delve into strange things for
7:14
the sake of strange things, but
7:16
there is a real value in
7:18
the brain being out of its
7:20
comfort zone, your sense is being
7:22
out of their comfort zone, your
7:25
body being out of its comfort
7:27
zone, in a thoughtful, exploratory manner.
7:29
I'm not suggesting that we eat
7:31
really strange foods for shock factor,
7:33
but I think that, you know,
7:36
especially as you grow older and
7:38
you get used to so many
7:40
things. 99% of what we put
7:42
in our mouths, adults, we know
7:44
what it's gonna taste like when
7:47
it gets to us. I mean,
7:49
we just do from experience. I
7:51
think that stepping outside of that
7:53
in a thoughtful manner, really thinking
7:55
about what's going on, the input
7:57
that we're getting, is something I
8:00
certainly want to. I'm not going
8:02
to say that it's critical to
8:04
be a good person or anything,
8:06
but I do think that it
8:08
makes life a hell of a
8:11
lot more interesting. How you would
8:13
mention before that, you know, in
8:15
the 60s, and this was partly
8:17
actually in response to early, or
8:19
very early in the 60s when
8:22
the then head of the FCC
8:24
declared that television was a vast
8:26
wasteland we started getting more kind
8:28
of educational television although it certainly
8:30
it was not educating us in
8:32
the way that maybe the government
8:35
wanted us to but you you
8:37
talked about how you know we
8:39
were being sold a ton of
8:41
stuff a ton of products there
8:43
were tie-ins between the cartoons and
8:46
the products that were being sold
8:48
how much how much of the
8:50
captain crunch experience and I Don't
8:52
think that 25-year-old me would ever
8:54
have imagined that, you know, 61-year-old
8:57
me would be asking a question
8:59
like this to somebody like you.
9:01
How much of the Captain Crunch
9:03
experience was the packaging and the
9:05
commercials and him swash buckling? Like,
9:07
how does that factor into that?
9:10
First off, let's step back from
9:12
the captain and look at the
9:14
world of cereals, of sugary cereals
9:16
in the 60's. What's significant, and
9:18
I don't know if anybody's ever
9:21
written a study on this, hell
9:23
I might, is that this is
9:25
really the first time that children
9:27
were being directly marketed to by
9:29
very smart people, right, who were
9:32
designing products and designing advertising specifically
9:34
to pump us full of, look,
9:36
it doesn't matter that it was
9:38
crap. Right. Which it was and
9:40
still is. What matters is that
9:42
kids all of a sudden, we've
9:45
felt seen by a bigger world.
9:47
And there was something, you know,
9:49
I remember sending in box tops
9:51
for whatever the price was promised.
9:53
But I'll tell you something that
9:56
was really worthwhile is like you
9:58
would save up like three. Cheerios,
10:00
I wasn't usually Cheerios, but some
10:02
other. Cheerios were kind of a
10:04
punishment, right? Well Cheerios, you know,
10:07
it was like, time out. You're
10:09
like, you're in life magazine, like
10:11
you're really in trouble, but in
10:13
great nuts. Although I really love
10:15
it. I'm a texture guy. So
10:17
this, this the anticipation of like,
10:20
of going through all this cereal,
10:22
getting the box tops, sending the
10:24
box tops in by mail, and
10:26
then waiting. waiting for the thing
10:28
to come, which was usually weeks,
10:31
right? And so the anticipation, I
10:33
mean, it was very, I'm not
10:35
gonna say empowering, but powerful in
10:37
a way, that whole experience was
10:39
instructive. Instructive, right? I think so.
10:42
It certainly taught you how to
10:44
be a consumer. And, you know,
10:46
and that's that's a valuable lesson
10:48
in and of itself. But I
10:50
don't think that people, people that
10:52
didn't live during that time, right,
10:55
do not know what this feels
10:57
like. And I will say that,
10:59
like, I was the last year
11:01
of the baby boomers, so I'm
11:03
practically Gen X, but I think
11:06
that once Gen X is over,
11:08
no one knows what that feels
11:10
like anymore. And I think it
11:12
informed us in more ways than
11:14
a lot of people think. Yeah
11:17
and it can be seen as
11:19
being cynical but it's also being
11:21
realistic and just being you know
11:23
kind of out there in the
11:25
world because as that same you
11:27
know we were being marketed to
11:30
the results of things like wacky
11:32
packages and you know critiques that
11:34
were being mass marketed to us
11:36
but that were critiques of mass
11:38
marketing. You know and we can
11:41
be we can be critical about
11:43
that because you know a lot
11:45
of companies were we're selling kids
11:47
really crap nutrition but let me
11:49
tell you something the world has
11:52
not changed one iota. In fact,
11:54
it's just taken that model and
11:56
perfected it more and more and
11:58
more and more as we break
12:00
into micro tribes. It's the same
12:02
thing. Only really now the product
12:05
is... us. Yeah. I want to,
12:07
you know, Captain Crunch, Madeline Moment,
12:09
is one of the, in the
12:11
book, it's one of the meals
12:13
that you say that made you.
12:16
Another one is a pizza that
12:18
you had in Tuscany. Describe that
12:20
and I was born in Brooklyn.
12:22
I grew up in New Jersey.
12:24
You know, pizza. But I also,
12:27
what it reminded me of is
12:29
when I went to college, 25
12:31
miles from my hometown, and I
12:33
had a white pizza for the
12:35
first time, and I was like,
12:37
like, I have never experienced something
12:40
so sophisticated, so delicious, my taste
12:42
buds are exploding, just thinking about
12:44
it. The way you describe this
12:46
pizza is, you know, it's one
12:48
of the best pieces of writing
12:51
I've read in forever. What was
12:53
going on with that pizza that
12:55
it blew your mind? Well, first
12:57
off. I'm not from New York
12:59
or New Jersey, so I had
13:02
not ever, this happened in college,
13:04
so I had never been exposed
13:06
to what I would call great
13:08
or even authentic pizza. Pizza for
13:10
me was pizza, hot pizza. Well,
13:12
that's not entirely true, because I
13:15
actually worked in a pizzeria during
13:17
college that they made better than
13:19
average pizza, but still, it was
13:21
deck pizza at best. It was
13:23
New York's lifestyle pizza. And like
13:26
most of the, it's funny. All
13:28
three of the stories in the
13:30
book that are meals that made
13:32
me, I realize in retrospect having
13:34
written about them is that they,
13:37
one of the greatest elements is
13:39
surprise, not knowing that this is
13:41
coming. I was lucky enough to
13:43
spend a semester of college in
13:45
a small town in Tuscany and
13:47
Italy doing theater there with the
13:50
University of Georgia and I literally.
13:52
as the story unfolded, it was
13:54
just an accident. I just got
13:56
invited by this old man and
13:58
his couple of kids and his
14:01
grandchildren to go up in the
14:03
hills. I would never be able
14:05
to find it again in 100
14:07
years. I don't even know if
14:09
it exists. To this shack. you
14:12
know, literally a pizza hot that
14:14
this guy, you know, was making
14:16
pizza and the pizza was utterly
14:18
alien when delivered to me. It
14:20
was like an amoeba of flat
14:22
cracker burnt on the bottom dough
14:25
with a little oil, a little
14:27
cheese and shaved artichokes, which I'd
14:29
never had before, shaved baby artichokes
14:31
and some peppers, like all that
14:33
was on it. And yet when
14:36
I ate it, and look, I'm
14:38
not saying it's the best pizza
14:40
I ever had. pizza I ever
14:42
had. But it summed up a
14:44
lot of things that I had
14:47
never had before in that kind
14:49
of way. That is the Gestalt
14:51
of the whole thing being very
14:53
very powerful. And I've never been
14:55
able to completely get my head
14:57
around why that was so important.
15:00
But I will also say that
15:02
the place itself was very important.
15:04
This strange kind of mysterious place
15:06
that I went, it was almost
15:08
like something out of the Odyssey,
15:11
to be honest, which of course
15:13
I never went back to again.
15:15
It's become now in my mind
15:17
over decades epic. At the time,
15:19
I probably thought, oh this is
15:22
really great, but it wasn't revelatory
15:24
then. It was only revelatory as
15:26
the years went by that that
15:28
moment. that one pizza stood out
15:30
as such an important thing and
15:32
hearing that old man say to
15:35
me and an Italian you remember
15:37
this which yeah darn right mister
15:39
oh that is like the Odyssey
15:41
or something like in my in
15:43
my mythology and let's face it
15:46
when you get into your 60s
15:48
if you're not building mythology out
15:50
of your past you're really missing
15:52
out because yeah one of the
15:54
great pleasures of divity is being
15:57
able to create something a little
15:59
more epic of your history than
16:01
perhaps the events that actually took
16:03
place. Yes, I say in the
16:05
author's statement on the book, you
16:07
know, most of this happened and
16:10
if it didn't, it should have.
16:12
Because I'm not about to pretend
16:14
for a moment. that my memory
16:16
is a documentary filmmaker. Yes, everything
16:18
in that book happened in my,
16:21
if it didn't, if it didn't,
16:23
I remember it that way. But
16:25
who's to say, you know, who's
16:27
to say how good memories? But
16:29
that pizza, yes, it was the
16:32
best pizza in the world, absolutely
16:34
not. Life changing for me, totally.
16:36
The third meal is at a
16:38
roadside restaurant that served Indian food.
16:40
No, it was a motel. It
16:42
was a motel in South Carolina
16:45
being managed by an Indian family
16:47
who were living on the premises.
16:49
And it was them sharing part
16:51
of their dinner. And there's, by
16:53
the way, just to be clear,
16:56
it's South Asian Indians. Yes. And
16:58
you were told that there was
17:00
going to be. Curry, explain what
17:02
happened there and why this has
17:04
stayed with you. Well, it turned
17:07
out to be kati, which is
17:09
a different thing altogether, but I
17:11
didn't know that. It's basically a
17:13
relatively simple yogurt-based soup that is
17:15
heavily spiced, and I had never
17:18
had it. It watched it being
17:20
made, helped a little bit, could
17:22
not have been more humble. And
17:24
yet it conveyed an entire continent
17:26
of flavors. But then also, I
17:28
can't remove the incredibly generous hospitality
17:31
and openness with which it was
17:33
given to us. These were really
17:35
humble people living at a very
17:37
humble little apartment in the back
17:39
of a motel, and they opened
17:42
that home up to us without
17:44
reserve. And I think that flavors
17:46
meal. in a very powerful way.
17:48
Yes, the soup was amazing. It
17:50
was redolent of all these spice.
17:53
It was literally like somebody had
17:55
put southern India into a juicer
17:57
and squeezed it, extracted how everything
17:59
of it. and then put it
18:01
in this little cup and given
18:03
it to me. So that was
18:06
a powerful sense memory kind of
18:08
thing, but also I don't think
18:10
that I had ever experienced that
18:12
level of open hospitality, of just
18:14
the simple act of people giving
18:17
me strangers feeding me, which I
18:19
think you get about. You still,
18:21
you try to recreate or you've
18:23
tried to recreate that meal and
18:25
you get close, but not quite
18:28
there. So
18:30
you're like chasing the drag? It's
18:32
not in my bones. It's not
18:34
in my bones. I can scratch
18:36
the edge, but the edge never
18:38
goes away. And it won't ever.
18:40
Probably because, you know, that woman
18:43
learned that recipe from her mother-in-law.
18:45
A time after time, every time
18:47
of making it in India. I
18:49
don't have that in my bones.
18:51
I'm not going to be able
18:53
to replicate that. I can get
18:56
close enough to just miss it
18:58
worse. You, in the book and
19:00
throughout your career, you've talked a
19:02
lot about questions about cultural appropriation
19:04
and the use of things. And
19:06
can you talk a little bit
19:08
about this because, you know, one
19:11
of the things that is fascinating
19:13
about food in an era where
19:15
you said, you know, we're breaking
19:17
down into micro tribes and things
19:19
like that. And that is kind
19:21
of true and there's good parts
19:24
to that and bad parts to
19:26
it. But one of the things
19:28
that has flourished. certainly over our
19:30
lifetimes is, you know, this profusion,
19:32
I don't want to say world
19:34
cuisine, but you know, people growing
19:37
up in a small town in
19:39
Georgia or in a cosmopolitan, you
19:41
know, in Atlanta or New York
19:43
or Bombay or whatever, Mumbai. You
19:45
know, everybody is mixing. You know,
19:47
what's the positive case for cultural
19:50
appropriation in an era where oftentimes
19:52
people are like, hey, you know
19:54
what? You know, you shouldn't be
19:56
making that food. Maybe you shouldn't
19:58
even be eating it. I do
20:00
have an essay in the book
20:02
about this because of something. think
20:05
about a lot. And I, you
20:07
know, this, the American ideal, you
20:09
know, so many foods are not
20:11
actually where you think they're from.
20:13
You know, I talk about the
20:15
fact that, you know, fish and
20:18
chips in England, you know, that's,
20:20
that's, that's a, that's a Jewish
20:22
diaspora dish. That, that was created
20:24
by, by, by, by Jesus after,
20:26
after Cromwell, as time, or... Right.
20:28
And it's, because I found that
20:31
interesting, it was actually... Jews from
20:33
Portugal, right, who eventually got kicked
20:35
out and end up back in
20:37
England, where the Jews have been
20:39
kicked out by Edward the first
20:41
in the 1300s. So it's like
20:44
we're already in a real worldly
20:46
bird of, you know, a lot
20:48
of national dishes are that way,
20:50
you know, Shachuka and Israel, you
20:52
know, it's North African, you know,
20:54
nothing is, everything's fluid, right, as
20:57
people move around the planet. And
20:59
I think that the appropriation part
21:01
becomes an issue or what we
21:03
call appropriation. I call it plagiarism
21:05
is when you claim something without
21:07
appreciating and kind of clearly stating
21:09
where it's from and what it
21:12
is. You know, if you if
21:14
you are and it doesn't matter
21:16
who you are where you're from,
21:18
it's like. I talk in the
21:20
book about, you know, if a
21:22
Greek family starts a pizzeria, if
21:25
a Chinese family straight from Beijing
21:27
opens a hot dog shop, are
21:29
they appropriating? Are they just smart?
21:31
If I put Siracha, you know,
21:33
on my scrambled eggs, am I
21:35
appropriating? Or is that just a
21:38
culinary sense? I think it's all
21:40
a matter of how you do
21:42
it. You know, my thing has
21:44
always been, hey, this is America,
21:46
you buy the groceries, the food
21:48
chairs. And I think that there's,
21:51
there's something about that. In this
21:53
day and age, we can learn
21:55
where things are from. We can
21:57
if we put in the mental
21:59
rigor, the intellectual rigor. learn where
22:01
things are from and something of
22:03
their history. I think that makes
22:06
food taste better. I do that
22:08
not because I feel beholden to
22:10
give credit to someone like, oh,
22:12
the people of Alhaka make this,
22:14
they're the ones, you know, and
22:16
point to them. Is that that
22:19
should be part of the rigor
22:21
of simply figuring out where your
22:23
food's from. Right. So what we
22:25
don't get to do is we
22:27
don't get to just pick up
22:29
things along the way and then
22:32
kind of claim them. and start
22:34
businesses about them and blogs about
22:36
them. But if you really love
22:38
something and you spend time learning
22:40
about it, appreciating it and give
22:42
credit where credit is due, I
22:45
don't think it's appropriation. I don't.
22:47
When I say it's celebration or...
22:49
I think if it's done right,
22:51
it's celebration, absolutely. And if I
22:53
take, you know, something from the
22:55
Hmong culture and working into my
22:57
food, as long as I talk
23:00
about it, and I'm aware of
23:02
it, then I don't think, I
23:04
don't personally think there's anything wrong
23:06
with it. This whole thing, if
23:08
you shouldn't even be eating it.
23:10
What? I'll eat whatever I freaking
23:13
want, if I can afford it,
23:15
and it's for sale, I'm gonna
23:17
eat it. No one's gonna tell
23:19
me not to eat it. Do
23:21
I have the right to then
23:23
start a blog about it? Depends.
23:26
That simply a matter of respect,
23:28
perhaps. Yeah, I'm still I always
23:30
go back to I I'm not
23:32
sure exactly You know who what
23:34
army general so belong to but
23:36
you know It's an interesting circuit
23:39
right like and he may have
23:41
been in the same military that
23:43
captain crunch was you know It's
23:45
kind of like you know a
23:47
chicken chicken catch Tories not not
23:49
Italian it's American right You know,
23:51
there's so many dishes from so
23:54
many places that originated in America
23:56
that happened because of the melting
23:58
pot, which we're very fortunate to
24:00
have. very fortunate to be part
24:02
of. So talk, yeah, I mean,
24:04
you would agree, right, that I
24:07
mean, this is, it seems inarguable
24:09
that food cuisine, or I guess
24:11
there is only food cuisine, but
24:13
cuisine in America has just gotten,
24:15
you know, astronomically better and more
24:17
interesting, or at least more varied
24:20
over the past 60 years. Why
24:22
did that happen? And is it
24:24
a good thing? Or, you know,
24:26
what are the limits to that
24:28
kind of explosion? Well,
24:31
it happened because of food media.
24:33
Above all. Because, you know, if
24:36
a Laoshan family opens a small
24:38
restaurant in Buffalo, New York, and
24:41
no one but Laoshans go to
24:43
it, then it doesn't blow up.
24:45
Instagram and the internet in general
24:48
changed that exposure level, which is
24:50
good. because then more people learn
24:52
about it. The world becomes more
24:55
intimate, you know, in its way.
24:57
There's a great amount of appreciation.
25:00
I think the flip side is
25:02
unfortunately, I think that America's cooking
25:04
skills at home are decaying. do
25:07
not think. And I think that
25:09
part of that is because now
25:11
so many young people consume so
25:14
much culinary content in places like
25:16
TikTok where food videos are more
25:19
freak shows than they are representation
25:21
of food that you would want
25:23
to make and eat and are
25:26
there to kind of thrill the
25:28
eyes and be. they sometimes just
25:30
disgusting or you know sometimes look
25:33
amazing that that's not how you
25:35
make. So this is like the
25:38
you know where you're eating hot
25:40
wings that you need to wear
25:42
a gas mask in order to
25:45
you know consume. There's always that
25:47
been that level of extremism in
25:49
food ever since we started having
25:52
eating contests you know which is
25:54
taking food out of context of
25:57
what it actually is. and turning
25:59
into something else. You know, and
26:01
I think that one of the
26:04
reasons food remains such a hot
26:06
subject is that we still haven't
26:09
figured out how to convey taste
26:11
and smell through technology. And hopefully
26:13
we won't ever figure out how
26:16
to do that. Because then we
26:18
have to do it in real
26:20
life, right? Well, once AI is
26:23
figure out taste and flavor, we
26:25
will. I think that that will
26:28
be the last stroke of humanity.
26:30
You know, we are distinctly human
26:32
because things we smell and things
26:35
we eat form memories via our
26:37
limbic system. That makes us really
26:39
special. And the animal world, you
26:42
know, in general, certainly primates all
26:44
do that. Dogs do that. But
26:47
I think that it keeps us
26:49
still special from the AI. Do
26:51
you, when you say that kind
26:54
of culinary skills are declining or
26:56
degrading in America, is that something,
26:58
you know, you talk about your
27:01
mother as well as especially your
27:03
grandmother in the book? Did you
27:06
learn directly from them or was
27:08
it something where in the same
27:10
way I was just talking about
27:13
this with somebody the other day,
27:15
you know, up through probably about
27:17
1970, it was common that most
27:20
women knew how to sew using
27:22
a sewing machine and they would
27:25
be able to churn out Halloween
27:27
costumes and at least simple clothing.
27:29
They also knew how to cook,
27:32
you know, my mother was not
27:34
a particularly good cook, but she
27:36
was in the kitchen every day.
27:39
I mean, has that? you know,
27:41
has, is the transmission of culinary
27:44
skills gone down because we don't
27:46
do that anymore? Or is it
27:48
that we are, you know, we're
27:51
chasing a very high cuisine rather
27:53
than a kind of basic. Well,
27:55
I'm not going to say that
27:58
we're chasing an Instagram. derived cuisine.
28:00
And we can't look to our
28:03
mothers to say, you know, can
28:05
you make me pat tie tonight?
28:07
You don't let your mother happens
28:09
to be tie. You know, so that what
28:11
I would call the base cuisine
28:13
of what a family used to
28:16
eat. And by the way, when
28:18
I was a kid, it was
28:20
not. at all uncommon for like
28:22
Monday night is this night, Tuesday
28:24
night is this night, Thursday night
28:27
is that night, Friday night is
28:29
fish sticks. You've got, you're either
28:31
Catholic or you've got Catholic
28:34
friends. So a mother, and I'm
28:36
going to use that, a, a,
28:39
a, a, a, the, whatever adult
28:41
supported this, yes, whether it was
28:43
a male or female, could get
28:45
by on 20 dishes, a couple
28:47
of special holiday meals and a
28:49
couple of desserts. So the recipe
28:51
box was not deep nor wide,
28:53
nor did it have to be.
28:55
And the great benefit of that
28:57
is that if you paid any
28:59
attention at all, after a few years
29:02
of Mondays, you'd have that pot
29:04
roast down or pot roast, which
29:06
is usually on Sundays, you would
29:08
learn those dishes as a foundation.
29:10
And we don't have that anymore.
29:12
We don't. Now for one thing,
29:15
during our childhood, mother started
29:17
working and then it became, or the
29:19
rule, then the exception. And then we
29:21
had kind of, I look at the
29:23
80s and 90s, as kind of just
29:25
a wasteland, a culinary wasteland
29:27
in a lot of ways because
29:30
people weren't learning how to cook
29:32
from families. They were learning to
29:34
cook from cookbooks. and magazines. That
29:37
was the great area of,
29:39
you know, like, Ormay magazine,
29:41
the Time Life series, to
29:43
read books. Then, in the
29:45
late 90s, it all changed
29:47
and became television. And for
29:49
a decade, almost, almost two
29:52
decades, I think people
29:54
learned primarily from food shows.
29:56
And food network, certainly,
29:58
what was there. cooking shows just
30:01
turned into competition shows. And now
30:03
I think back, we're back a
30:05
drift again. Yeah, and you're down
30:07
on the competition shows at this
30:10
point, right? I am not, I
30:12
don't want to do any more
30:14
of them. I did my share.
30:16
Hopefully there were some good ones.
30:19
I did them because I had
30:21
a contract and I had to
30:23
do the work. I am, I
30:25
think they have a place, but
30:27
that's all there is any. And
30:30
so I think that young people
30:32
now see food as simply something
30:34
you used to beat somebody else
30:36
for something. I think that it
30:39
is, other than Martha Stewart's whole
30:41
perfection thing, which I despise almost
30:43
beyond my words of description. Why
30:45
do you, why is, why is,
30:48
why does that rank? Well, I
30:50
have a, I have a whole
30:52
essay about the whole affection thing.
30:54
I know a lot more people
30:57
that stopped entertaining after the rise
30:59
of Martha Stewart than those that
31:01
started entertaining because they suddenly became
31:03
self-aware of their own lack of
31:05
perfection. And I know a lot
31:08
of people that used to have
31:10
really good times, that their houses
31:12
eating a bowl of chili or
31:14
whatever, simply stopped because they became
31:17
so aware of the fact that
31:19
they didn't have the right pots
31:21
and pans, and they didn't have
31:23
the tableclaws, and they didn't have
31:26
this. So I hate that. I
31:28
absolutely hate that. I think that
31:30
that whole perfection thing drug us
31:32
into dark ages of home entertainment,
31:35
where no one really cooked for
31:37
friends and family, because we're all
31:39
too scared to do. And if
31:41
we did do it, it was
31:43
because we were competing. And now
31:46
with culinary shows, it was competing.
31:48
It is frustrating. Yeah, when you
31:50
go to, you know, when you
31:52
reach a certain level, I guess,
31:55
in your life and possibly career
31:57
or whatnot, where you're going to
31:59
friends' houses for dinners and everybody
32:01
is out doing themselves, and whether
32:04
the food is good or not,
32:06
you kind of feel compelled to
32:08
be like, this is truly delicious.
32:10
I rather small quality food. You
32:13
know, make a big pot of
32:15
soup and invite a bunch of
32:17
people over and have a good
32:19
time. That used to be what
32:21
hospitality was about. It wasn't about
32:24
impressing, it was about sharing. And
32:26
I think we had a lot
32:28
more fun than. Your inspirations, as
32:30
you listed in the book, include
32:33
Julia Child, Mr. Wizard, and Monty
32:35
Python. Those are the inspirations for
32:37
the show Good Eat's, yeah. They
32:39
obviously, you know, I think everybody
32:42
would agree with that, but focus
32:44
a little bit on Julia Child.
32:46
I mean, she is a fascinating.
32:48
change agent in American society and
32:51
certainly in post-war culture, what grabbed
32:53
you and stays with you about
32:55
Julia Child? Multiple things. And multiple
32:57
things that I don't think have
32:59
ever been replicated in another food
33:02
personality. One, sheer unmitigated joy. She
33:04
loved what she was talking about.
33:06
She loved what she was cooking.
33:08
She loved what she was cooking.
33:11
her openness to share that joy,
33:13
whether things were going right or
33:15
not going right, which she didn't
33:17
mind showing. She's kind of the
33:20
anti-Martha Stewart. The turkey balls on
33:22
the floor, pick up the turkey,
33:24
laugh about it. And that wonderful
33:26
sharing of joy made you want
33:29
to be in there in that
33:31
kitchen with her. Number two. You
33:33
know, she wasn't an expert. She
33:35
became one. But she really wasn't.
33:37
She was constantly in the process
33:40
of discovery herself. I mean, when
33:42
you look at her history, she
33:44
had experience. She wasn't much of
33:46
an expert. I mean, she went
33:49
to court on below. Okay, great.
33:51
But what I think that really,
33:53
there's a class of teacher that
33:55
is great while they are in
33:58
the process of discovery themselves. Great
34:00
teachers are always constantly learning. They
34:02
may not be constantly learning in
34:04
their teaching you. but they are
34:07
constantly learning and that keeps a
34:09
spark going. I would like to
34:11
think that if I followed her
34:13
down any path, at least with
34:15
the show Good Eats, is that
34:18
Good Eats was always fun because
34:20
I was constantly in the state
34:22
of discovery. And when you're discovering
34:24
things, you want to share things
34:27
in a natural way that is
34:29
very catching. And I think that
34:31
the other thing about Julia was
34:33
just her humanity, her absolute humanity,
34:36
that I think carried across through
34:38
everything that she did. And I
34:40
think it's so interesting when people
34:42
do talk about cultural appropriation. Well,
34:45
what the hell do you think
34:47
she was doing it? Right. Yeah,
34:49
yeah. She was, probably she was
34:51
a close appropriating other white people
34:53
being the French. But deciphering, and
34:56
then the last thing is her
34:58
ability to decipher and demistify, you
35:00
know, you take a cuisine like
35:02
French, which is highly organized and
35:05
very rigorous, which I'm actually glad
35:07
of because... It gives us form
35:09
and function for that whole cuisine,
35:11
is that she was able to
35:14
demystify that and make not as
35:16
scary for people, which allowed a
35:18
lot of home cooks in America
35:20
during her reign to feel that
35:23
they weren't just low-class Americans anymore.
35:25
We can make French food, which
35:27
at the time was considered the
35:29
world standard. Right. Mr. Wizard might
35:31
be unfamiliar to people. You know,
35:34
maybe more and after 1907. The,
35:36
the, the, the, the, Bill Nigh,
35:38
you know, Mr. Richard, there were
35:40
a lot of shows. He was
35:43
really the first to try to
35:45
demystify fully or, or, make science,
35:47
higher ideas of science, understandable through
35:49
kind of models and storytelling. Bill
35:52
Nigh certainly would be the, the
35:54
equivalent today, I, I, I would
35:56
say. And for me, the science
35:58
part of cooking has always been
36:01
critical because... I can't cook well
36:03
just walking in the kitchen and
36:05
doing it. I really do need
36:07
to understand what's going on in
36:09
order to be a better cook.
36:12
And that understanding, for me at
36:14
least, almost always comes out of
36:16
science. It either comes out of
36:18
historical understanding of why and how
36:21
an ingredient or a food way
36:23
got someplace or the science of
36:25
what the food actually is doing
36:27
and needing. How did you come
36:30
up with, you know, in good
36:32
eats? I mean, you were constantly
36:34
coming up with new ways to
36:36
illustrate the science of gluten or,
36:39
you know, how different molecules mix?
36:41
Was that all just kind of,
36:43
you know, trial and experimentation to
36:45
figure out what would represent something?
36:47
I'm going to say that probably
36:50
50% of the time that I
36:52
spent researching and writing that show
36:54
was about coming up with workable...
36:56
visual, entertaining, and yet accurate models.
36:59
What I did not let myself
37:01
get caught up in was a
37:03
level of exactitude that would have
37:05
resulted in no one understanding any
37:08
of it at all. This is
37:10
a complaint that scientists had about
37:12
the show, especially in the early
37:14
days, when they would say, well,
37:17
that's not really how gluten works.
37:19
And I'm like, well, look, if
37:21
there's a scale of understanding about
37:23
gluten from, I don't know which
37:26
side of the screen you're looking
37:28
at, I'm going to do that
37:30
because the rest of it, I
37:32
don't care about. I just don't
37:34
care. And I would rather have
37:37
70 than nothing. And I think
37:39
that a lot of teaching that's
37:41
done by scientists in both high
37:43
school and college level ends up
37:46
not working because they go for
37:48
100% or nothing. They go for
37:50
brooch. If you don't get it
37:52
100% right, then you end up
37:55
not getting any of it. And
37:57
I rather have people get 70%.
37:59
And doing that in a way
38:01
that's entertaining. Which is absolutely critical
38:04
if you aren't entertaining people. They
38:06
are not paying attention So with
38:08
models whether it's like a skit
38:10
or it's a whatever it is
38:12
or puppets, you know, which We
38:15
used a locked and out puppets
38:17
because people will watch them and
38:19
people will be entertained. And it
38:21
may be days before they realize
38:24
they learned something. Hell, they may
38:26
never realize that they learned something,
38:28
but they did. But they did.
38:30
And then how did Monty Python
38:33
round out this? I mean, it's
38:35
an influence and it's apparent through
38:37
what you're doing. But what was
38:39
the essence of Monty Python that
38:42
you really loved? We lost David
38:44
Lynch recently, one of my favorite
38:46
filmmakers and artists, who staunchly believe
38:48
that you don't need to explain
38:50
it. You don't need to explain
38:53
a lot of things. And I
38:55
think that is what makes Money
38:57
Python humor very often still to
38:59
this day so wickedly our point
39:02
is that it doesn't. very often
39:04
explain itself at all, which opens
39:06
us up to understanding the things
39:08
that human beings think are funny
39:11
are not always explicable. Unlike something
39:13
like Saturday Night Live, which I
39:15
also riffed on from time to
39:17
time, nothing is cringe-worthy about Monty
39:20
Python humor now. There's actually, there's
39:22
nothing politically incorrect, there's nothing sexist.
39:24
It simply still works. you know,
39:26
the absurdism of having, you know,
39:28
the Spanish Inquisition bust into the
39:31
room. Why is that funny? I
39:33
don't know. I don't know why
39:35
it's funny. There's certainly nothing funny
39:37
about the Spanish Inquisition and yet
39:40
there it is. And we used
39:42
it. I stole it because I
39:44
could and used it very often
39:46
in good eats as a celebration
39:49
of that. But I do believe
39:51
the laughing brains are more absorbent.
39:53
And I still look to Python
39:55
as... the absolute model of what
39:58
skit humor can do without explaining
40:00
itself. Yeah, it seems like you
40:02
respond to and are mirroring I
40:04
think larger trend in American cultures
40:06
in the post-war era where it
40:09
became more participatory or rather I
40:11
mean you know people like Julia
40:13
Child and Mr. Wizard certainly demystified
40:15
things and then so like you
40:18
know and maybe you can do
40:20
this too. Is that is that
40:22
a big I mean obviously the
40:24
good eats is part of that
40:27
the cooking shows and they have
40:29
their excesses they you know suddenly
40:31
you're like oh you know what
40:33
I'm gonna try something different. Certainly
40:36
with good eats. We saw a
40:38
whole, not generation, but a whole
40:40
person type, get off the sofa
40:42
for the first time. And that
40:44
was the engineer-minded American male who
40:47
was, a lot of them were
40:49
motivated by either the devices that
40:51
we kind of hacked on good
40:53
eats like smoking a fish in
40:56
a cardboard box or the sudden
40:58
understanding how something worked. Got a
41:00
lot of people the mechanics of
41:02
that and the mechanic mindedness of
41:05
that got a lot of people
41:07
into the kitchen who had not
41:09
been in the kitchen So I
41:11
can only speak to that population.
41:14
Yeah, because they were the population
41:16
that that talks to me the
41:18
most and and His voice their
41:20
appreciation for that that approach You
41:22
have a great essay titled Howl
41:25
of the Husky for Younger, I
41:27
think, certainly people born after the
41:29
baby boomer, Gen X, might not
41:31
realize that Husky was a category
41:34
of youth clothing, or at least
41:36
for boys. I don't know if
41:38
there were Husky girls as well.
41:40
I don't think there were. Husky.
41:43
Yeah. Husky was, you can't fit
41:45
in the regular clothes. And it
41:47
was a sub, you know, it
41:49
said over the aisle. Husky. And
41:52
if you entered that aisle. wherever
41:54
was you were buying clothes, you
41:56
know, you're, you're, you now have
41:58
a label, you're husky. And it
42:00
wasn't like we're not saying you're...
42:03
fat, you're aske. And I wonder,
42:05
I've never been able to find
42:07
out who decided that was the
42:09
word. Aske. You know, we're, we're,
42:12
what? Why? Why? Why? Why is
42:14
that? Why not? We're not slightly
42:16
balloon-like. You know, I, one of
42:18
these days, I'll figure out a
42:21
little thick. You're like plus size
42:23
kind of but not a piece
42:25
but I would I would dare
42:27
you to walk into a women's
42:30
wear store and look for an
42:32
aisle that says plus size yeah
42:34
it might be the whole store
42:36
is is kind of gauged in
42:38
that too rich but no husky
42:41
and it's gone now we don't
42:43
I don't think we see yeah
42:45
and you became husky because you
42:47
were eating too much right after
42:50
the loss of your father and
42:52
yes It wasn't just eating too
42:54
much, it was what I was
42:56
eating, which was massive amounts of
42:59
crap. A lot of crap. Can
43:01
you talk about what snapped you
43:03
out of that? Because you also
43:05
have, you know, it's a fascinating,
43:08
you know, if, you know, more
43:10
complex, sophisticated, wider ranging food as
43:12
part of the post-war experience, so
43:14
is dieting and, you know, both
43:16
getting fat and skinny and you
43:19
talk about how... you decided yeah
43:21
you were not going to be
43:23
husky you were husky no more
43:25
would talk about your dieting issues
43:28
and what you know I didn't
43:30
food consumption I think through most
43:32
of most of college I was
43:34
relatively fit because I delivered pizzas
43:37
for a living so it's a
43:39
huge amount of running up and
43:41
downstairs so I didn't try to
43:43
to not be husky it just
43:46
I It was just
43:48
part of life, my life is
43:50
that my body didn't do that.
43:52
But then I got husky again
43:55
later, you know, certainly after the
43:57
birth of my child, after the
43:59
birth of my daughter. I did,
44:02
I would total dad, but plus.
44:04
although I don't really appreciate that
44:06
term, but when I did finally
44:08
realize that something had to change,
44:11
when I did finally realize that
44:13
something had to change, I decided
44:15
to base, create a diet that
44:18
was based on what I had
44:20
to have, not what I couldn't.
44:22
The couldn't list was relatively small,
44:25
and some things were only allowed
44:27
once a week, but mostly I
44:29
had to focus on what I
44:32
needed from a good nutrition level.
44:34
And that I allowed me. to
44:36
lose a great deal of weight.
44:39
The problem was that I had
44:41
not set a goal and kind
44:43
of lost my mind after I
44:46
lost about 50 pounds because after
44:48
I lost about 50 pounds, I
44:50
kind of became another person. I
44:52
looked like another person. I didn't
44:55
recognize myself anymore and I ended
44:57
up going through a really traumatic
44:59
psychological period after I'd lost the
45:02
weight. Not before. I wasn't, you
45:04
know, and you know, you could
45:06
be you could be too thin,
45:09
right? Well, look, everybody will tell
45:11
you that you can be too
45:13
thin, you know, it's why we
45:16
have an erectia problems. For me,
45:18
it was simply a matter of,
45:20
you know, personal identity. You know,
45:23
who are you? You know, who
45:25
is this person looking back at
45:27
me in the mirror? And by
45:30
the way, I never saw a
45:32
thin person. I just saw someone
45:34
else that wasn't me. When you
45:37
lose your visual identity with yourself,
45:39
you can go a little crazy.
45:41
That's what the Invisible Man is
45:43
about. You know, once you can't
45:46
really be seen, you know, what
45:48
are you? And I think the
45:50
more people should probably talk about
45:53
that. So I am, I'm back
45:55
to Husky. I am. I'm Husky.
45:57
It's who I am. I'm Husky.
46:00
I try to stay fit. I
46:02
try to eat well. But I'm
46:04
Husky. And I mostly Husky because
46:07
I like alcohol. And I'm not
46:09
willing to give up alcohol to
46:11
not be husky. Is you invoked
46:14
the concept of dad by... is...
46:16
I hate that expression very much,
46:18
but it is... Yeah, and I
46:21
mean, is it good now? We
46:23
seem to have a wider range
46:25
of, you know, kind of positive
46:27
body types. And, you know, you
46:30
can be gigantically fat and obese
46:32
where you need, you know, a
46:34
motor scooter and things like that.
46:37
I think most people would agree
46:39
that's bad, but... Are we more
46:41
forgiving of body types now than
46:44
we used to be? And if
46:46
so, is that a good thing?
46:48
I think we say that we
46:51
are. I think we say that
46:53
we are. I don't think we
46:55
actually are. Yeah. We're animals. Yeah.
46:58
We're still animals. And we still...
47:00
We say that we are. Yeah.
47:02
And I think that... The important
47:05
part of that is that, you
47:07
know, media is what's what got
47:09
us in doing a lot of
47:11
trouble. The media around fashion certainly
47:14
has. It has become more accepting.
47:16
I think it's interesting that more
47:18
body types are considered acceptable and
47:21
beautiful and in when it's women
47:23
than men. I think that dad
47:25
bought is almost universally looked down
47:28
on as weak as as, no,
47:30
I, I, I, so I think
47:32
there's a bit of a contradiction
47:35
going on there that, that I
47:37
hope work out. But I think
47:39
that what we need to focus
47:42
on, you know, by and large
47:44
is simply being healthy and to
47:46
understand you can be healthy and
47:49
have different sizes and shapes and
47:51
shapes. That's culture. Right. Yeah, that's
47:53
genetics. You know, my genetics want
47:55
me almost universally to stay at
47:58
exactly the same weight. My weight
48:00
hasn't changed a pound in the
48:02
last three years. It's a husky,
48:05
but I've never had. a cavity.
48:07
Genetics. You know? Can I go
48:09
out every morning and run five
48:12
miles and work out and blah
48:14
blah blah and be lighter? Yes.
48:16
Am I going to? Odds are
48:19
no. I'm not gonna. I'm not
48:21
gonna do it because I don't
48:23
like it. So there... What's your
48:26
take on drugs like Ozempec and
48:28
other... you know, other things that
48:30
make, you know, there has always
48:33
been such a moral equation of,
48:35
you know, that if you're fit,
48:37
you are morally superior. And now
48:40
we seem to be in an
48:42
era where, maybe you can look
48:44
good in a pair of jeans,
48:46
you don't have to go husky,
48:49
and it's not because you've really
48:51
changed anything in your moral character.
48:55
A lot of these drugs are,
48:57
for some we can just look
48:59
at them as weight loss drugs
49:01
because a lot of these drugs
49:03
are proving to have a lot
49:05
of effect in other areas. A
49:07
lot of other areas of health,
49:09
I am not a doctor, do
49:11
not play one on TV, I
49:13
read a lot, but I'm not
49:15
about to get into the discussions
49:17
of certain rare cases of diabetes
49:19
or any of these other things.
49:21
I will say this. Medicine
49:24
should cure things, right? And then
49:27
allow you to go on your
49:29
way without it. If you break
49:31
your leg, you get a crutch.
49:34
The crutch lets you walk until
49:36
your leg heals. There's nothing wrong
49:38
with a crutch. Do you want
49:41
to walk on it for the
49:43
rest of your life? I personally
49:45
wouldn't. I wouldn't want to be,
49:47
I would strive to live my
49:50
life to not be in a
49:52
mobility scooter all my life, because
49:54
I don't like to take it.
49:57
technology. Whatever it is, I think
49:59
the goal is to get yourself
50:01
to where you don't need it
50:04
anymore. What I'm afraid of is
50:06
that that is not going to
50:08
be what happens with these drugs.
50:10
People realize I can eat the
50:13
family bag of Cheetos and still
50:15
look like this, which is kind
50:17
of a weird kind of bait
50:20
and switch when you think about
50:22
it. So I hope, but I
50:24
have no faith that these drugs
50:27
will be used with restraint to
50:29
get people where they need to
50:31
go because there are a lot
50:33
of folks that don't, I mean,
50:36
look, I've asked myself when I
50:38
take it. I see myself, I'm
50:40
realistic. No, no, because I earned
50:43
this. I don't have a medical
50:45
problem. I earned looking like this.
50:47
You know why? I put things
50:49
in here. You play like martinis
50:52
and things. So no, I'm not
50:54
going to, but I do think
50:56
that for people that do use
50:59
these, if it is really radically
51:01
changing their health and obviously for
51:03
the better, they should do it.
51:06
I would look to, you know,
51:08
six months down the line. Is
51:10
there a way to not live
51:12
your life with this? Is there
51:15
a way to live sustainably? But
51:17
I don't think that is what's
51:19
going to happen. You have been,
51:22
you've been outspoken in talking about
51:24
how the U.S. Department of Agriculture
51:26
and the Food and Drug Administration
51:29
are not particularly good, who are
51:31
involved in these kinds of drugs
51:33
as well as, you know, various
51:35
kinds of food pyramids or portions
51:38
on. Which have almost always been
51:40
designed for industry. Yeah. Not to
51:42
protect consumers. The great protector of
51:45
our health. Look, organizations like the
51:47
USDA should absolutely have hard and
51:49
fast labeling rules, quality rules. You
51:52
shouldn't be able to say one
51:54
thing when it's another. I don't
51:56
even think you should be able
51:58
to take a container of corn
52:01
oil and put the label gluten-free.
52:03
on top of it. Okay, yeah,
52:05
it is. But there's no gluten
52:08
and corn. You know, so I
52:10
think that we need better controls
52:12
on what goes into food. I
52:14
think we need warning labels. I
52:17
think that a bag of cheetahs
52:19
should be labeled like a pack
52:21
of cigarettes. Because in the end,
52:24
the level of damage is, I
52:26
would say, close to the same.
52:28
If not, worse. I mean, we
52:31
need education. We need education. We
52:33
need, I used to say that
52:35
culinary and nutritional education should be
52:37
in the home. It's not realistic
52:40
anymore. I don't know any parents
52:42
that can fight phones and iPadsats
52:44
and social media. No, we need
52:47
to be like the Japanese. We
52:49
need to have home act in
52:51
school from about age six to
52:54
graduation. Absolutely, we need that. Discuss
52:56
the Japanese experience then. How does
52:58
that work in a way that
53:00
they have a homec course that
53:03
does everything from teaching how to
53:05
balance a bank book through nutritional
53:07
training. And of course they put
53:10
a lot of good nutrition on
53:12
the table in the restaurant. So
53:14
granted, we're talking about a country
53:17
that has a very homogenous. cuisine,
53:19
right? Japanese cuisine. Now there's a
53:21
lot of different types of Japanese
53:23
cuisine. The point is, they put
53:26
a lot of emphasis on the
53:28
fact that if you teach someone
53:30
about nutrition, a child about nutrition,
53:33
and empower them, whether it's shelling
53:35
the peas or draining the tofu,
53:37
whatever it is, they then go
53:39
home and engage in their families
53:42
in a more team-like way. which
53:44
is the probably the most important
53:46
part of the model is that
53:49
it makes them better family members.
53:51
Now you're talking about families that
53:53
have, you know, are preparing meals
53:56
together the way that perhaps American
53:58
families don't anymore. But by doing
54:00
that and by getting the child
54:02
engaged and empowering them with knowledge
54:05
and skills, they eat better and
54:07
they tend to be better family
54:09
members, which eventually is going to
54:12
make a better societal member. If
54:14
we don't get culinary nutritional training
54:16
in two schools, I don't know
54:19
what will happen. Because obesity, you
54:21
know, people don't want to admit
54:23
what a problem of obesity actually
54:25
is. There's two industries thrive on
54:28
it. The food industry and the
54:30
medical industry thrive on it. So
54:32
I think we're being farmed, basically.
54:35
We're being farmed. Are you, what's
54:37
your sense of the Make America
54:39
Healthy movement that has really kind
54:42
of emerged with the appointment of
54:44
Robert F. Kennedy Jr. to Health
54:46
and Human Services? Is that something
54:48
you applaud? Do you think it's
54:51
BS or what's your sense of
54:53
it? I have not read a
54:55
piece of news since the election.
54:58
don't know enough to talk about
55:00
this. I needed to disengage from
55:02
all of that. They're all going
55:04
to do whatever it is that
55:07
they're going to do. We'll all
55:09
live with it, I guess. So
55:11
I'm not going to say whether
55:14
I agree or not, because I
55:16
don't know. I don't know. I
55:18
know one thing. School, education, or
55:21
it won't matter. Or it won't
55:23
matter. I guess I want to
55:25
end on two points. One, you
55:27
talk about a family recipe Christmas
55:30
jello salad, which seems, I don't
55:32
know if that would pass muster
55:34
in a Japanese home act class,
55:37
but can you talk a little
55:39
bit about why you love that
55:41
and how that kind of exemplifies
55:44
on a certain level the southern
55:46
culture, broadly speaking that you come
55:48
out? We like our congealed salads.
55:50
We do. Jello Bay salads are
55:53
a big thing in the South.
55:55
I love them and always have
55:57
and I always will. You mix
56:00
up a couple of different jellows
56:02
and put a bunch of stuff.
56:04
in there and I'm just, I'm
56:07
hooked. My grandmother's and my mouthwater's
56:09
thinking about it is lemon and
56:11
orange jello with pecans and chunks
56:13
of pineapple and whole cranberry sauce.
56:16
There is something texturally very satisfying
56:18
to me about that. I don't
56:20
think it's the worst thing you
56:23
can eat. You know, it's fat
56:25
free. Yeah, there's sugar. And
56:28
I think that for the southern
56:30
sensibility, there's a very very special
56:32
place for that. But what's more
56:34
important is the generational connectivity, you
56:36
know. And the fact that when
56:38
I talk about, you know, Jello
56:40
mold stuff, people go, oh, right.
56:42
It's interesting. So I'm going to
56:44
stick it. Is that, I mean,
56:46
is it partly because now we're
56:48
all, we're sophisticated and Jello. you
56:50
know, is kind of a post-war
56:52
product. I mean, it pre-exists, but
56:54
it's like, oh, it's day class,
56:56
say, anybody can each other. Talk
56:58
a bit about what is the
57:00
power of coming from a broadly
57:02
southern background. You used to be
57:04
a southern Baptist, you're not quite
57:06
any more, but how does being
57:08
from the South inform your worldview
57:10
and, you know, something that other
57:12
Americans as well as, you know,
57:14
people from wherever, from wherever, can
57:16
learn. Southern Cook means understanding the
57:18
incredible culinary heritage of the southern
57:20
experience and I absolutely that that
57:22
is deeply entrenched not only in
57:24
people escaping Europe you know Scotland
57:26
to the the Appalachians but in
57:28
very much embracing the full situation
57:30
of the experience of the experience
57:32
of the experience of enslaved people.
57:34
have influenced what we call southern
57:36
cuisine. And so to be a
57:38
southern cook I think means constantly
57:40
being aware of it. and
57:42
with your place
57:45
in that system. that
57:47
system, better, for
57:49
worse, least being
57:51
aware of it
57:53
and appreciating it
57:55
and studying where
57:57
these things come
57:59
from and how
58:01
they got there and
58:03
how a rich is
58:05
a rich quilt work of people's
58:07
of peoples and
58:09
experiences. that Yeah.
58:11
And that intentionality
58:13
or knowing where
58:15
you're from and
58:17
where you might
58:19
be headed might to
58:21
be central to
58:23
everything you do.
58:25
to I think it's gotta
58:27
be there. it's got to be there. I think you're
58:29
robbing yourself of a whole dimension. of
58:31
a whole dimension. All right, we're gonna leave
58:34
it there, there. Alton Brown. Thanks for talking Thanks
58:36
for talking to on Good luck
58:38
on your farewell tour the book Food for
58:40
food for you so much. you so much.
58:42
Fantastic, fantastic conversation. I really enjoyed
58:44
I Thank you so much. this. Thank you
58:47
me much. Yeah, me too.
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