Episode Transcript
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Terms and conditions apply. LinkedIn,
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the place to be, to be. I'm
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Francis Lamb and this is the
1:25
Splendid table from APM. When you
1:28
hear the words New Year's celebration,
1:30
what do you think of? My
1:32
first dog actually always goes back
1:35
to Anthony Bordane because there's a
1:37
scene in his book Kitchen Confidential
1:40
where as a chef he's, you
1:42
know, cooking in New Year's Eve
1:44
menu where they're pulling out all
1:47
the stops and it's champagne and
1:49
caviar. Of course the night he's
1:52
running about turns into a total
1:54
catastrophe, but that's the image I
1:56
imagine, right? A night of excess
1:59
and indulging. and New Year's Day is
2:01
really just for nursing to hangover.
2:03
Which is all to say that the idea
2:05
that pops up in my head is
2:07
kind of the exact opposite of what
2:09
New Year has actually meant to me
2:11
and my family when I was growing
2:13
up. And by that, I mean the
2:16
Lunar New Year, which we called Chinese
2:18
New Year when I was a kid.
2:20
And that celebration was always the
2:22
opposite of reckless partying. It was
2:24
always about family, community, and symbolism.
2:26
We had rituals and traditions, like
2:29
we got dressed up in outfits
2:31
and there was always red clothing,
2:33
like a new nice piece of
2:35
red clothing. And when we were
2:37
kids, we would get money from
2:39
our relatives for good luck. And
2:41
for me, that was basically my
2:43
allowance for the year. So I
2:45
was very sure to find every
2:47
single adji to make sure I
2:50
said hello and happy new year
2:52
to them. And of course, you
2:54
really can't have a Chinese or
2:56
Asian celebration celebration of any time.
2:58
without a whole menu of symbolic
3:00
foods. And I'm bringing all this up
3:03
because the Lunar New Year is upon
3:05
us and because of course it's celebrated
3:07
by a quarter of the world's people.
3:09
We're going to hear about the Korean
3:12
Lunar New Year celebrations in
3:14
Chef Kooni Kim's home, about
3:16
the Vietnamese celebrations of our
3:18
dear friend Andrea Wynn, and
3:20
first about the Chinese traditions
3:22
that went on in Sarah and
3:24
Caitlin Looon's house. Sarah and Caitlin,
3:26
along with their parents, Judy and Bill,
3:29
are the family behind the walks of
3:31
life. It's a blog that started 10
3:33
years ago, when the daughters found themselves
3:35
writing to their parents, saying, hey, like,
3:38
how did you make this again? Man, I
3:40
miss eating that. How did you make
3:42
that? And now, that blog has grown
3:44
to have probably the most devoted following
3:46
of any Chinese cooking blog in America.
3:48
I finally got to meet them at
3:50
a launch event for the cookbook, published
3:52
by the company I work for. And I'm
3:54
not going to lie. I got a little jealous
3:56
when I saw how much fun they have cooking
3:59
with each other. So I really want
4:01
to know what it's like for
4:03
them on the day when food
4:05
means everything. Hey Sarah, hey Caitlin.
4:07
Hey Francis, hey Francis, it's great
4:09
to be here. Yeah, it's great
4:11
to see you. Thank you so
4:13
much for coming. And you know,
4:15
it's time to celebrate. And famously,
4:17
the Chinese New Year table is
4:19
full of foods that have symbolic
4:21
meaning, right? Like every dish either
4:24
looks like or, you know, the
4:26
name of which sounds like some
4:28
kind of blessing you want in
4:30
the new year. Famously, dumplings look
4:32
like old silver ingots, so they
4:34
symbolize money, all that kind of
4:36
stuff. What does your New Year
4:38
menu look like? So, I'll start,
4:40
this is Sarah. Yes, every item
4:42
on the Chinese New Year table,
4:44
particularly for Chinese New Year Eve
4:46
dinner, so Nyenye fun, which is
4:48
the evening before New Year's Day,
4:50
has to have, every dish has
4:53
to have some kind of symbolic
4:55
meaning. At our Chinese New Year
4:57
dinner, I think that a few
4:59
things... show up every year. So
5:01
we always have spring rolls, which
5:03
are kind of in the same
5:05
vein as the dumplings. They resemble
5:07
like gold bars. And then also
5:09
like silver. Yeah, gold is a
5:11
lot better than silver. And then
5:13
there's always a whole poached chicken
5:15
which represents like wholeness or family
5:17
unity. We always have two fish.
5:19
So you eat one fish at
5:22
the dinner and then you leave
5:24
one for the next day as
5:26
leftovers and that kind of represents
5:28
surplus for the new year. And
5:30
then, you know, sometimes we'll see
5:32
things like stir fried lettuce, for
5:34
example, which sounds like kind of
5:36
like, it doesn't sound all that
5:38
exciting, but in Chinese lettuce is
5:40
called Chung Thai, which kind of
5:42
is like a hominem for like
5:44
to make money, basically. So a
5:46
lot of the symbolism. in these
5:49
dishes has to do with you
5:51
know not just the visual appearance
5:53
of the food, but in a
5:55
lot of cases, like the name
5:57
of the dish that's like a
5:59
hominine for something having to do
6:01
with prosperity or wealth or something
6:03
like that. Yeah. Yeah. And one
6:05
quick note on the Cantonese poach
6:07
chicken is, you know, just like
6:09
kind of building on the symbolic
6:11
aspect of everything, like it's truly
6:13
a whole chicken. That's a head
6:15
on with feet chicken, because sort
6:18
of if you cut away any
6:20
part of it, you're kind of...
6:22
cutting into that unity and togetherness
6:24
and that sense of wholeness. So
6:26
yeah, just there's strong commitment to
6:28
the symbolic meaning. I mean, this
6:30
is really special because you've described
6:32
a full menu and like when
6:34
I think about the Chinese Year
6:36
celebrations, my family had like, I
6:38
don't really remember. all those individual
6:40
dishes. I remember more this like
6:42
theory, this concept of, oh, the
6:44
dishes are supposed to sound like
6:47
this or they're supposed to look
6:49
like that. And let's face it,
6:51
as you mentioned, most of the
6:53
time they have to do with
6:55
money. We want dumplings for more
6:57
silver, we want springing rolls for
6:59
more gold, we want lettuce for
7:01
more cash. It's like, okay, what's
7:03
like the crypto dish? I guess
7:05
we don't have those anymore. But
7:07
like for me, the one I
7:09
really remember, the one I really
7:11
remember. universal in all the different
7:13
regions of China, but at least
7:16
in Guangdao, where we speak Cantonese,
7:18
where my family is from, the
7:20
word for shrimp is ha. And
7:22
so if you have ha, ha,
7:24
ha, ha, ha, and a dish,
7:26
that means you'll laugh all through
7:28
the year, and that always finds
7:30
that really lovely. But does your
7:32
table change year to year, Caitlin?
7:34
Honestly, I feel like, We really
7:36
as a family I think enjoy
7:38
the the different traditional aspects of
7:40
it so there are some there
7:42
are some dishes that are just
7:45
so comforting that we always want
7:47
to have those around so like
7:49
the whole poach chicken with ginger
7:51
and scallion oil is just like
7:53
that's just like a non-negot. like
7:55
we have to have that. Same
7:57
goes for fish. It's usually a
7:59
Cantonese steamed fish. And then I
8:01
feel like the rest of it
8:03
honestly kind of can, okay, so
8:05
maybe I go back a little
8:07
bit on what I said. The
8:09
rest is a little bit open
8:11
for interpretation because I feel like
8:14
as me and Sarah have deepened
8:16
our knowledge on Chinese cooking, these
8:18
days we have much more of
8:20
like an opinion and a say
8:22
on what we want to cook
8:24
and what we want to eat
8:26
for the. for the big celebration.
8:28
So it's kind of like, honestly,
8:30
a little bit like Thanksgiving in
8:32
the way that you kind of
8:34
like think about and plan the
8:36
menu and you, you know, each
8:38
family member has the things that
8:40
are their favorite so you try
8:43
to work all those in. Yeah,
8:45
I don't know. I'm, I need
8:47
to pause because I'm losing my
8:49
train of thought, but this is
8:51
where the editor would cut. But
8:53
Sarah, yeah, maybe you could go.
8:55
Yeah. I think that what's great
8:57
about having worked on the blog
8:59
for the last 10 years is
9:01
that I think my sister and
9:03
I have become a lot more
9:05
invested in the Chinese New Year
9:07
meal because you know when we
9:09
were kids it was kind of
9:12
we felt like we were maybe
9:14
a little bit detached from it
9:16
like it was a meal that
9:18
our parents repaired and you know
9:20
my sister and I didn't necessarily
9:22
have like the knowledge or the
9:24
know-how to like contribute as much.
9:26
You know we made dumplings with
9:28
our grandmother and like we were
9:30
part of it that way but
9:32
we were part of it that
9:34
way but we definitely didn't have
9:36
the knowledge of like what should
9:39
be on the table and what
9:41
do these dishes actually mean symbolically
9:43
and now that we've we've been
9:45
working on the blog for you
9:47
know almost 10 years now and
9:49
we've even developed some of these
9:51
recipes ourselves so at this point
9:53
I feel like it's almost like
9:55
we're just like a lot more
9:57
invested in the menu so like
9:59
my sister brought up Thanksgiving right
10:01
like Thanksgiving used to be like
10:03
our only domain to like contribute
10:05
to put dishes on a holiday
10:08
table, so to speak, right? Because,
10:10
like, Chinese holidays, like, my sister
10:12
and I were basically useless growing
10:14
up. So, so I think, like,
10:16
now I feel really proud that,
10:18
you know, if we have to
10:20
make a Cantonese post chicken, like,
10:22
it's not just my parents, like,
10:24
making that anymore. Like, I could
10:26
make the poach chicken, or, like,
10:28
I could make my mom's spring
10:30
rolls, you know, and also, like,
10:32
like, what's been great about the
10:34
blog, dishes from other regions that
10:37
aren't necessarily like our families background
10:39
to see like, okay, what are
10:41
other families in other parts of
10:43
China cooking for the new year?
10:45
Because Chinese New Year dishes, while
10:47
they all sort of have that
10:49
like commonality of being symbolic, they
10:51
can vary quite a bit from
10:53
region to region. So it's been
10:55
fun to kind of explore different
10:57
dishes and learn more about them.
10:59
over the years, because every year,
11:01
right, every Chinese New Year, we
11:03
have to come up with like
11:06
a new handful of Chinese New
11:08
Year recipes. And after 10 years,
11:10
you're like, okay, we've kind of
11:12
gone through all the, like, the
11:14
ones we make. So now it's
11:16
time to, to look at, you
11:18
know, what other families are doing
11:20
and experiment with those recipes. Great.
11:22
What are some of those regional
11:24
dishes that you didn't know, you
11:26
know, you know, from your own
11:28
experience that you learned through looking
11:30
into it, through research? So one
11:32
of them, it's this dish, like
11:35
we didn't really grow up eating
11:37
this, but it is a very
11:39
famous dish. Lions had meatballs, and
11:41
it is actually from, it is
11:43
sort of from like the region
11:45
where my mom grew up, but
11:47
like for whatever reason in our
11:49
family, we didn't really ever make
11:51
them, but it is a large
11:53
braised meatball. And I guess like
11:55
the name comes from like I
11:57
guess like the resemblance to a
11:59
lion's head. But that you know
12:01
my mom did a lot of
12:04
research on that recipe and it
12:06
was fun to develop that one.
12:08
She also did this recipe for
12:10
another one that we just like
12:12
never had growing up, which is
12:14
a stuffed gluten. I know like
12:16
now, today gluten is like the
12:18
enemy, but in China, right, like
12:20
you'll see like essentially like Satan
12:22
or gluten in various forms like
12:24
a tofu. And there are these
12:26
fried gluten. balls for like a
12:28
better term, but they're like fried
12:30
like puffs almost. And they're very
12:33
like, yeah, when they're cooked, they're
12:35
chewy, but when they're fried, they're
12:37
like kind of light as air.
12:39
And you can stuff them, so
12:41
my mom stuffs them with like
12:43
this meat filling and then brazes
12:45
them. And that was like a
12:47
totally, I did not know that
12:49
that was a thing. That was
12:51
like a totally new thing for
12:53
me to see. My mom also
12:55
made these little dumplings that looked
12:57
like money bags, which I don't
13:00
know if that's like a traditional
13:02
regional thing, but it's definitely like
13:04
a just like an interesting idea
13:06
that she got from basically like
13:08
surfing the Chinese internet for ideas.
13:10
So like it's just really kind
13:12
of fun to just like look
13:14
back back. at what's going on
13:16
in China around the holiday, like
13:18
what people are making, and to
13:20
share that with an American audience.
13:22
Yeah, I love that. I love
13:24
the idea of like, oh, generation.
13:26
So now you'll be like, you
13:29
know, you'll be telling your descendants,
13:31
like, what was the meaning of
13:33
this dish? Why do we celebrate
13:35
with this? Like, well, your great
13:37
grandmother was surfing the internet one
13:39
day. We'll be back with more
13:41
with Caitlin and Sarah Lund, authors
13:43
of The Walks of Life, and
13:45
then we're on Dette, the Vietnamese
13:47
New Year, with Andrea Wynn. I'm
13:49
Francis Lamb, and this is the
13:51
Splendid Table from APM. Support for
13:53
the Splendid Table comes from
13:56
wonderful seedless lemons. Wonderful seedless...
13:58
lemons are 100% naturally seedless
14:00
lemon variety. They're juicy, zesty,
14:02
and non-GMO project verified. Whether
14:04
it's for your morning lemon
14:07
water, a few slices on
14:09
your baked salmon, or a
14:11
squeeze to freshen up your
14:13
super salad, you can do
14:15
it with wonderful seedless lemons.
14:18
They're available nationwide at Whole
14:20
Foods, Trader Joe's, Walmart, Kroger,
14:22
and select Costco outlets. Look
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for wonderful seedless lemons at
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your local retailer or visit
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Built for business by American Express. I'm
15:04
Francis Lamb and this is the
15:06
show for curious cooks and eaters.
15:08
We're celebrating the Lunar New Year
15:10
today with Chef Cooney Kim, author
15:13
Andrea Wynn, and right now, continuing
15:15
our conversation with Sarah and Caitlin
15:17
Lone, authors of The Walks of
15:19
Life. Let's go back to it
15:21
with that. So Sarah, before the
15:23
break, you mention the stuffed gluten.
15:25
And, you know, I mean, that
15:27
is not the most appealing word,
15:29
especially, like, because of how we
15:31
associate gluten now. mainly you hear
15:33
because of people of gluten intolerance
15:35
but that is like a traditional
15:37
food where it was a great
15:39
way of getting protein like a
15:41
plant-based protein if you didn't have
15:43
meat available yeah you would take
15:45
flour and you make a dough
15:47
and you keep washing the dough
15:49
until all the flour starch comes
15:51
out and you just have this
15:53
gluten which is this beautiful stretchy
15:55
sort of protein-y meat replacement but
15:57
I love the idea of fying
15:59
it and puffing it up and
16:01
that sounds awesome yeah I mean
16:03
there's a really rich tradition and
16:05
obviously like Hannah Che, vegan Chinese
16:07
kitchen, like she gets into this
16:09
extensively, but like there is a
16:11
really rich tradition of Buddhist style,
16:13
vegetarian, or vegan cooking in China
16:15
and like with the gluten the
16:17
when you wash the flour and
16:19
make this gluten, you're also getting
16:21
another byproduct, which is the starch,
16:23
the wheat starch from the flour.
16:25
And with that, you can make
16:27
noodles or you can just isolate
16:29
the wheat starch and use it
16:31
to make like dumpling wrappers and
16:33
things like that. So it's just,
16:35
you know, when you explore these
16:37
recipes, you're just, there's so much
16:39
to learn about. the culture behind
16:41
it, and where these dishes came
16:43
from, and where they originated. Yeah,
16:45
totally. Caitlin, you'd mentioned that when
16:47
you were younger, and yeah, I
16:49
had a similar experience too, you
16:51
would just kind of show up,
16:53
right? And everything was on the
16:55
table, and you weren't really that,
16:57
you know, whatever, we're kids. So
16:59
you weren't like really trying to
17:01
learn, oh, why are we eating
17:03
this tonight, and why is this
17:05
a thing that we're seeing here?
17:07
gotten older you've gotten not just
17:10
learned more about it as you're
17:12
talking about working on the blog
17:14
so it's you know it's your
17:16
work but you also felt like
17:18
you're more invested in these traditions
17:20
talk about that why do you
17:22
feel that way? Yeah I mean
17:24
when I think about you know
17:26
it's funny like reflecting on Chinese
17:28
New Year now as like adults
17:30
I think about the way that
17:32
it used to be when we
17:34
were kids and yeah we were
17:36
very much passive participants, you know,
17:38
it was very much like, oh,
17:40
off to grandma's house and flushing,
17:42
we go. And we would sort
17:44
of show up and there would
17:46
be all these dishes like laid
17:48
out on the table and my
17:50
grandmother would prepare all the, you
17:52
know, all the symbolic things and
17:54
a lot of that, you know,
17:56
you would kind of just pick
17:58
up by house. like you weren't
18:00
really like actively knowing exactly what
18:02
should be on the table or
18:04
you were just kind of reacting
18:06
to it. So I actually have
18:08
like a funny memory of like
18:10
sitting down to the table like
18:12
suspiciously surveying all the things as
18:14
a little kid and you know
18:16
my mom would say like oh
18:18
you know all of these dishes
18:20
have symbolic meanings and you know
18:22
if you eat them then it'll
18:24
help you have a better new
18:26
year and I would like. go
18:28
around and be like, oh, what
18:30
does that mean? And what does
18:33
that mean? And she'd say, you
18:35
know, whatever. And I'd be like,
18:37
oh, well, I don't really like
18:39
that food. So maybe I'll just
18:41
do without that this year. But
18:44
yeah, you know, a lot of
18:46
that stuff, even though, you know,
18:48
I joke about it, but I
18:50
think over the years, like. As
18:52
I got older I realized how much
18:54
of that stuff I did really internalize
18:57
and pick up on and when I
18:59
went to college for example like I
19:01
really missed that you know like I
19:04
really wanted to celebrate Chinese New Year
19:06
when that time of year rolled around
19:08
and even though when I was like
19:10
a little kid sometimes I really like
19:13
wasn't all that clued into like exactly
19:15
what was going on it was like
19:17
all about like the raining down of
19:20
the red envelopes with money inside. You
19:22
know I really just had this
19:24
appreciation that I didn't even realize
19:26
even that I had for these
19:29
traditions and these dishes too. Yeah
19:31
I think I think you're you both
19:33
kind of spoke on this like oh
19:35
when you were younger or when we
19:37
were younger like It was sort of passive,
19:39
right? It was like, okay, the days here
19:41
and like, okay, I'm supposed to do this.
19:44
I'm supposed to make sure I say hi
19:46
to that auntie and, you know, whatever. And
19:48
really, I'm just, yeah, yeah, I'm just focused
19:50
on like, oh, like, how much pocket money
19:52
I'm going to get from the Red Envelopes
19:54
that, like, you know, all the gross hand
19:57
me. And not really thinking about the actual
19:59
traditions, but now. I don't know.
20:01
Maybe it's nostalgia, but maybe it's
20:03
also like, oh, at some point
20:05
you start to think about like,
20:07
oh, this is who am I,
20:10
right? This is kind of who
20:12
I am. Totally. And I feel
20:14
like something that me and Sarah
20:16
have been like, funnily, thinking about
20:18
more and more as we get
20:20
older is like more of the
20:23
superstitions around Chinese New Year and,
20:25
you know, the... Yes, like you
20:27
wear red on the day and
20:29
in the week leading up to
20:31
it, like you're supposed to clean
20:34
the house before Chinese New Year
20:36
so you don't like accidentally sweep
20:38
away your luck and you get
20:40
a haircut, you buy a new
20:42
outfit and all these things that
20:44
like when you're a kid, you're
20:47
kind of like, yeah, is that
20:49
really like, is there really anything
20:51
to that? But you know, the
20:53
uncertainty of adulthood kind of like
20:55
takes hold. And then suddenly you're
20:58
like, yeah. I can use all
21:00
the luck I can get. Yeah,
21:02
exactly. Like every year I'm like,
21:04
am I gonna really do a
21:06
deep clean of my apartment? I
21:09
don't know. I don't know. Like
21:11
I hem and I ha and
21:13
then like three days before I'm
21:15
like, I have to do it.
21:17
And then I do like a
21:19
top to bottom clean of the
21:22
apartment and like, and then I
21:24
feel like my luck has been
21:26
scared. This was a blast. Thank
21:28
you guys so much for coming
21:30
here to you. Yeah, happy to
21:33
hear, Francis. Gung heifat-joy. Gung heifat-joy.
21:35
Laced and doloy. Still said with
21:37
the slight sheepishness of kids, I
21:39
feel like, when you make the
21:41
rounds and it's like, Gung heifat-toi,
21:43
that it's like, can I have
21:46
my money now? Sarah and Cookbook,
21:48
The Walks of Life. You can
21:50
find a recipe for poached white
21:52
cut chicken at splendidtable.org. Okay, so
21:54
if you start in the very
21:57
middle of China and head due
21:59
south, you'll come to Vietnam. Home
22:01
to one. of the world's absolutely
22:03
greatest cuisines. It's really one of
22:05
my favorites. It's so full of
22:07
fresh flavors and incredible savoriness. And
22:10
yet, it also has a surprisingly
22:12
simple comforting Lunar New Year culinary
22:14
tradition. According to our friend, Andrea
22:16
will win. Andrea is an award-winning
22:18
cookbook author and one of the
22:21
O.G. food bloggers at Viet World
22:23
Kitchen. She's here now. Hey Andrea!
22:25
It's great to see you! Hey
22:27
fans, it's always good to talk
22:29
to you. Yeah, this is going
22:32
to be a pleasure. And hey,
22:34
actually, let me start with this.
22:36
The name of the Vietnamese New
22:38
Year celebration. Tet. Yes. Can you
22:40
tell me what that means? You
22:42
know, Tet? Like, it means so
22:45
many things to Vietnamese people. And
22:47
when we celebrate Tet, we say
22:49
an antet, which is ang means
22:51
to eat. So we literally eat.
22:53
Eat. the new year up. Like
22:56
we just absorb it and food,
22:58
you know, plays a huge role.
23:00
So we absorb it through our
23:02
souls, our minds, you know, through
23:04
taking a look at the longevity
23:06
of our family histories, and then
23:09
we also celebrate Tet at the
23:11
table and in the kitchen. And
23:13
the first day of Tet is
23:15
called Tet, Win Don, and it
23:17
is like the most important day
23:20
of the year. And is there
23:22
a meaning of the name? Is
23:24
there a translation or transliteration? No,
23:26
not that I know of. We've
23:28
never talked about, like, you know,
23:30
there's so much influence from Chinese
23:33
culture in Vietnam, and I've like
23:35
tried to trace, you know, just
23:37
trying to figure out, like, is
23:39
there a meaning to the word
23:41
dead? And I've yet to come
23:44
across it, and if you do,
23:46
let me know. You know, when
23:48
I was growing up, it was
23:50
always just translated as like, oh,
23:52
Chinese New Year. And well, I
23:54
think more properly now, we say
23:57
lunar new year, because it's not
23:59
just the Chinese who celebrated, right?
24:01
Like multiple Asian, Southeast Asian cultures
24:03
celebrate the lunar new year. So
24:05
we call it the lunar new
24:08
year now. But I've never known
24:10
like a name for the holiday,
24:12
the festival, the celebration in Cantonese,
24:14
which is what I speak. Like
24:16
we've always just called it, Sun
24:19
Meme, which literally just means new
24:21
year. So I was intrigued to
24:23
know that there was a specific
24:25
name for the holiday in Vietnamese.
24:27
new year. Yeah, no, I mean,
24:29
we, you know, before my family
24:32
came to America, we just knew
24:34
it as fit. And then we
24:36
come here and everyone's like, Chinese
24:38
New Year. And I was like,
24:40
I'm not Chinese. And so... I
24:43
would always try to correct people
24:45
lunar new year and it's only
24:47
been in the last couple of
24:49
years, right? That people have like
24:51
switched from Chinese New Year to
24:53
lunar new year. Interesting. That people
24:56
are really seeing this as a
24:58
celebration that's rooted in the lunar
25:00
calendar versus a solar calendar and
25:02
that it's celebrated by people who
25:04
are of East Asian descent. Yeah,
25:07
totally. And obviously, you know, China
25:09
and Vietnam are neighbors and there
25:11
are... commonalities across the cultures. Like
25:13
you and I were talking about
25:15
this yesterday, how the tradition, which
25:17
for me was the most important
25:20
part when I was a kid,
25:22
of getting lucky money in red
25:24
envelopes or something that is common
25:26
both in Vietnam and China, you
25:28
wear new clothes, you clean the
25:31
house, all that stuff. But the
25:33
food traditions are quite different, right?
25:35
Right. They are. And when I've
25:37
taken a look at... Cantonese menus,
25:39
they're always like full of, you
25:42
know, these really charming and playful
25:44
homonyms. You know, like, you know,
25:46
things that are supposed to bring
25:48
you luck or the gold bars
25:50
that are shaped like, like fried
25:52
egg rolls or spring rolls. In
25:55
Vietnamese tradition, we like focus on
25:57
very simple things. Rice, meat, beans.
25:59
and vegetables and I know that
26:01
sounds so boring but when they're
26:03
assembled... I'm never bored by those
26:06
things. Okay thank you that's why
26:08
you and I are friends. And
26:11
so, like, there is this Vietnamese
26:13
Thet sticky rice cake that is
26:15
called Benjing when it's wrapped by
26:17
Northern Vietnamese folks, and it is
26:19
a square-shaped tamales, so to speak,
26:21
that looks like a cake, and
26:24
it's about, you know, one or
26:26
two inches high, and it could
26:28
be as small as three inches
26:30
or as big as ten inches,
26:32
and it's still with sticky rice,
26:34
and that's been wrapped up in...
26:36
banana leaf or in Vietnam you
26:38
would use a particular leaf that
26:41
either way the leaf would stain
26:43
the exterior of the cake a
26:45
pale jay green which I think
26:47
symbolizes sort of like the the
26:49
renewal aspect of the year because
26:51
it's considered you know like a
26:53
springtime renewal thing even though that
26:56
we're still in winter but anyway
26:58
inside there are mung beans that
27:00
are kind of buttery and then
27:02
fatty pork and lean pork it's
27:04
all seasoned by like pepper and
27:06
fish sauce. And that's it. It's
27:08
really good. It comes together and
27:10
it's either wrapped as a square
27:13
or as a cylinder called bent
27:15
that, not bent that, but it's
27:17
bent that, spelled T-E-T, but people
27:19
are always like confused. Anyway. Like
27:21
you make you start prepping for
27:23
it like a few days before
27:25
the actual first day of the
27:28
year and and the first day
27:30
of the year you open up
27:32
these cakes and they're warm they're
27:34
soft and they're fragrant and they
27:36
just say to me Vietnam because
27:38
it's a very humble kind of
27:40
tradition and it's absolutely delicious. That's
27:43
interesting actually because I think of
27:45
you know my my impression of
27:47
Vietnamese food is that it is
27:49
There's a huge emphasis on contrast
27:51
and freshness, right? A lot of
27:53
fresh herbs, crunchy raw vegetables to
27:55
go with your... or noodlesles or
27:57
to go with something stewed or
28:00
something grilled. So it's interesting that
28:02
like this celebratory food is a
28:04
cake that's steamed. So it's kind
28:06
of all melded together rather than
28:08
sort of contrasting. Is there, do
28:10
you know if there's, like, what
28:12
do you think about that? Yeah,
28:15
most definitely. So, so this package
28:17
of, Sticky rice and beans and
28:19
pork, you know, it's it's boiled
28:21
for like hours in a giant
28:23
lot And it's a communal thing
28:25
like you literally you have to
28:27
boil it for you know if
28:30
you've got like medium-sized ones about
28:32
five inches square it boils for
28:34
five to six hours And yeah,
28:36
yeah, so it's like this long
28:38
long-term investment of time and a
28:40
lot of communal cooking but the
28:42
crunchy contrast comes in the forms
28:44
of like pickled vegetables and preserved
28:47
vegetables. This time of the year,
28:49
you know, if you are in
28:51
like Northern Vietnam, you really don't
28:53
get a lot of the fresh
28:55
herbs. There are some, but it's
28:57
not that kind of... plethora of,
28:59
you know, hedgerow greenery that people
29:02
expect from Vietnamese food. And, and
29:04
so the crunch and the contrast
29:06
are there, but it's not the
29:08
usual suspects that people would associate
29:10
with Vietnamese food. Okay, that's interesting.
29:12
And do you have like a
29:14
family recipe for your bunch of
29:17
them? Like, is it like, it's
29:19
got to taste like moms or
29:21
doesn't count? You know, moms tastes
29:23
like. something she brought over from,
29:25
in 1975, and her recipe goes
29:27
back to a friend of the
29:29
families who actually wrote an article
29:31
in Saigon about how to make
29:34
Benjamin, and when he came to
29:36
America, he was like, I'm going
29:38
to bring some of my most
29:40
valuable things. I'm going to bring
29:42
like a photocopy or a mammographical,
29:44
whatever it was of that particular
29:46
article. And he sent it to
29:49
her. And that's how she was
29:51
able to replicate the intro. of
29:53
wrapping the cake because it's not
29:55
really made of like many ingredients
29:57
but in order to take those
29:59
ingredients and assemble it into basically
30:01
like a gift box of food
30:03
that's wrapped in banana leaf is
30:06
pretty difficult and and so she
30:08
does that she taught me how
30:10
to do it. How do you
30:12
do that? How do you make
30:14
like you know soft food appear
30:16
in like right hands? Right, right.
30:18
So there is a mold, a
30:21
wooden mold, in a square shape
30:23
frame, and then I line it
30:25
with leaves, banana leaves and bamboo
30:27
leaves in a particular pattern, and
30:29
then I put my ingredients in,
30:31
and I fold the leaves down,
30:33
but then there's a certain point
30:36
where I have to remove it
30:38
from the mold, and that's the
30:40
tricky part. And I literally will
30:42
somehow slide that mold onto my
30:44
forearm, and then do like a
30:46
little circ desolate trick. to remove
30:48
the mold and then wrap it
30:50
all up. But aluminum foil helps
30:53
a lot. You know, the ingenuity
30:55
of humankind is using tools. So
30:57
there you go. Exactly, and we
30:59
didn't have aluminum foil in Vietnam
31:01
in the 1970s. And so people
31:03
would just kind of freestyle it
31:05
with a particular kind of leaf.
31:08
They wouldn't use banana leaf. And,
31:10
um, but, but everyone would just
31:12
say, well, how beautiful can you
31:14
Ben Jung be? But in America,
31:16
you can make it beautiful with
31:18
like the wooden mold as help
31:20
as well as the foil. Who's
31:23
in charge of making it in
31:25
your family? Typically, well, I split
31:27
duties with my mom, but, um,
31:29
she... you know, it depends on
31:31
her mood. And last year, right
31:33
before it did, my father had
31:35
passed away. And so I didn't
31:37
want my mom to be lonely
31:40
on Ted. So I drove down
31:42
to Southern California from my home,
31:44
which is about an eight-hour drive.
31:46
And I said, mom, I said,
31:48
ma, you know, let's make Ben-jung.
31:50
And she was like, I don't
31:52
know. I'm kind of out of
31:55
practice. I don't know, I don't
31:57
feel so good. And then all
31:59
of a sudden she calls me
32:01
a week before and she says,
32:03
I told your sister to get
32:05
me all the ingredients and the
32:07
leaves. And I was like, all
32:10
right, she's still got her game
32:12
on. And so I go down
32:14
there and she's just like, you
32:16
know, we're gonna make it. And
32:18
two days before, she goes into
32:20
high gear to like soak the
32:22
rice, to cook her among beans,
32:24
to prep the leaves. And then
32:27
the day before she and I
32:29
wrap them. She made about 20.
32:31
And she had three pots going.
32:33
And she like a climb, she's
32:35
88. She climbs up into her
32:37
garage and like pulls down these
32:39
gigantic stock pots that she and
32:42
my dad used to use to
32:44
make mn't Jung. And I'm just
32:46
like, you're going to fall women.
32:48
She's like, no, I'm not. And
32:50
I'm like trying to help her.
32:52
It was, you know, and it
32:54
was a great. wonderful distraction and
32:57
a wonderful way for us to
32:59
celebrate the new year, something new
33:01
without my father. And I think
33:03
that's the other aspect of TED
33:05
is that it's very family oriented
33:07
and there's a lot of nostalgia
33:09
and there's a lot of this
33:11
notion of gratitude. And that's what
33:14
I always want to tell people
33:16
about TED is that it's for
33:18
us, for Vietnamese people, it's a
33:20
very humble kind of time of
33:22
time of the year. We'll
33:26
be back with more with Andrea
33:28
Wynn, author of Vietnamese food any
33:30
day. I'm Francis Lamb and this
33:33
is the Splendid Table from APM.
33:39
Hey, it's Sally Swift. I
33:41
know you love the Splendid
33:43
table as much as I
33:45
do because you're listening right
33:47
now. But did you know
33:49
that we have a weekly
33:51
newsletter too? It's called Weekend
33:53
Kitchen and it's all about
33:56
making your midweek cooking easy
33:58
and delicious. Every Wednesday we
34:00
share a new recipe from
34:02
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34:04
authors from all over the
34:06
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34:08
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we've got you covered every
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single week. Go to splendetable.org/newsletter
34:14
to get the Weekend Kitchen
34:16
in your inbox. Again,
34:19
that splendetable.org/newsletter. Have
34:21
a great week
34:24
everyone. We're talking
34:26
today about Lunar New Year
34:28
menus from China, Korea, and
34:30
now Vietnam, with cookbook author
34:32
Andrea Wynn. Let's get back to it
34:34
with her. So we've talked a lot
34:36
about the bunjong as sort of the
34:39
centerpiece of the meal and how
34:41
eating is such an important part of
34:43
celebrating, Ted, as you said. Do
34:45
you feel like you also, do you
34:47
evolve the menu? Do you feel
34:49
like you don't dare evolve the
34:51
menu? Do you do you add things along
34:54
with the... Like what do you
34:56
traditionally do? And I'm just like, well,
34:58
you know, these are the traditions of
35:00
my family. This is like when you
35:02
stray from tradition that something or someone's
35:04
going to strike you down. Like
35:06
some lightning bolt. Right, right. And for
35:08
me, as a writer, people are always
35:11
coming to me and asking, what do
35:13
you traditionally do? And I'm just like,
35:15
well, you know, these are the traditions
35:17
of my family and these are Vietnamese
35:19
food ways, but food ways evolve. And
35:21
so one of the things that really
35:23
kind of Gets me about that
35:25
and my family's celebration is
35:27
that it's very very meaty
35:29
And it's the time of the
35:32
year when you're Swiss to traditionally
35:34
kill a pig and make different
35:36
kinds of charcuturi and also simmer
35:39
parts in caramel sauce. And so
35:41
we always make these pork riblets
35:43
in caramel sauce and fish sauce.
35:46
It's like a bittersweet, savory kind
35:48
of dish. But this year, I'm
35:50
going to do a vegetarian take
35:53
on a southern Vietnamese cow. And
35:55
so the Southerners will cook pork
35:58
belly up with coconut water. caramel
36:00
sauce and eggs. And they serve
36:02
that with their Tet celebration. And
36:05
because my family's like half northern
36:07
and half southern, I'm like, I'm
36:09
gonna go all regions, okay? Just
36:11
gonna go all the way from
36:13
the. top to the bottom of
36:15
the country. But the version that
36:17
I'm making is going to involve
36:19
frying tofu and then simmering it
36:21
with coconut milk and fish sauce
36:24
and having the eggs in there
36:26
with the caramel sauce. And it's
36:28
absolutely delicious. And the tofu gets
36:30
like this richness that is very
36:32
similar to the pork belly, except
36:34
you don't have to eat pork
36:36
yet again. Yeah. Because I mean,
36:38
I love pork, but it gets,
36:41
you know, it gets to be
36:43
very, very heavy duty. Yeah. Well,
36:45
that you also feel the you
36:47
also feel the... You know, obviously
36:49
you have the pull of tradition,
36:51
you have the pull of, you
36:53
know, wrapping and doing this craft
36:55
with your mother, but also that
36:57
you feel the freedom to say,
37:00
hey, I'm going to switch things
37:02
up for my own taste too.
37:04
You know, making that switch as
37:06
a cook is something that when
37:08
I was younger, I wouldn't have
37:10
done because I felt like I
37:12
didn't have the right to. But
37:14
as I've become... you know, a
37:16
more well-practice cook, a person who
37:19
feels, you know, more confident in
37:21
the kitchen and in my culture
37:23
and in terms of who I
37:25
am, I take more liberties with
37:27
it. I mean, and without straying
37:29
too far from what makes Vietnamese
37:31
food, what Vietnamese food is. And
37:33
the recipe that I talked to
37:36
you with the pork and eggs
37:38
in caramel sauce is something that
37:40
I came up with. for my
37:42
upcoming book, Evergreen Vietnamese. And that's
37:44
all rooted in Vietnamese traditions of
37:46
using a lot of ingredients from
37:48
the earth with just a little
37:50
bit from the sea and some
37:52
meat. And I remember like sharing
37:55
this idea with my mom. I
37:57
was like, you know that pork.
37:59
belly, you know, call recipe, well,
38:01
I'm gonna make it with tofu.
38:03
And at first, because she's such
38:05
a traditionalist, she was like, what
38:07
are you doing? That's so, sounds
38:09
so wrong. And I was like,
38:12
lady, you know. It's
38:14
all right. And I served it
38:16
to her and she was like,
38:18
oh, this is like really good.
38:21
So even for someone of her
38:23
generation, born in like the 1930s,
38:25
you know, she's willing to be
38:27
flexible. And it's just a matter
38:30
of opening yourself up to new
38:32
ideas. But in a way, also
38:34
tracing those back to really where
38:37
your food traditions come from. And
38:39
I think that that is a
38:41
what it's a time when I'm
38:44
always thinking about that. going back
38:46
and then moving forward. Mm. I
38:48
love that. That's super, super lovely.
38:50
Well, thank you so much, Andrea.
38:53
It's been such a pleasure talking
38:55
with you. Always a pleasure talking
38:57
with you, Francis. Andrea Wynn's latest
39:00
book is called Vietnamese Food Any
39:02
Day, and her next one, all
39:04
about the great plant-based dishes of
39:06
Vietnam, is evergreen Vietnamese. And on
39:09
our website, splendotable.org, you can find
39:11
one of her classic recipes. for
39:13
pork ribs and caramel sauce. It
39:16
is a really, really great time
39:18
for Korean food lovers in New
39:20
York City right now. There has
39:23
just been this incredible bumper crop
39:25
of exciting creative Korean restaurants all
39:27
over the city. One of New
39:29
York's absolute greatest Korean chefs isn't
39:32
really looking to innovate anything. Hooney
39:34
Kim keeps it old school. So
39:36
old school in fact that he
39:39
has been spending the last 12
39:41
years traveling back and forth to
39:43
Korea, learning how to make the
39:46
traditional seasonings like soy sauce and
39:48
fermented soybean paste, they're the backbone
39:50
of Korean cuisine. And so we
39:52
figured anyone that interested in tradition
39:55
would probably take the Lunar New
39:57
Year pretty seriously. Hey Chef, it's
39:59
great to see you! Hi Francis,
40:02
nice to be here, thank you.
40:04
Yeah, I'm super excited to talk
40:06
with you about this, because I
40:08
actually don't know much about what
40:11
a traditional Korean Lunar New Year
40:13
celebration is like. And when we
40:15
talked earlier, you said you do
40:18
actually celebrate it in a very
40:20
traditional way. Yes. Do you remember
40:22
how you first started learning about
40:25
these traditions? I was born in
40:27
Korea, and I was there until
40:29
I was four. I lived in
40:31
England in them, no, here to
40:34
the US. My first memory of
40:36
celebrating these these lunar New Year
40:38
customs is when I was about
40:41
five or six, it's the first
40:43
time that I sort of realized
40:45
I didn't have a father, because
40:47
my father passed away when I
40:50
was two. And New Year's, a
40:52
lot of my relatives, we would
40:54
get together at my house and
40:57
sort of have this. For me,
40:59
it was festive. You know, the
41:01
ladies, the women cooked all day
41:04
in the kitchen from scratch, and
41:06
at night, we had this huge
41:08
table with enormous amount of food,
41:10
fruits, candies even, and we would
41:13
all sort of take turns bowing,
41:15
and then afterwards, we would just
41:17
eat pig out all night, and
41:20
everybody would go home with food
41:22
that was left over. And I
41:24
found out later. the reason why
41:26
we were there was to sort
41:29
of remember my father who passed
41:31
away and this this act or
41:33
this ceremony is called Chezha and
41:36
we do it once twice a
41:38
year once Lunar New Year and
41:40
once the the day that he
41:43
actually did pass away which is
41:45
early December and you know I
41:47
never really grew up in Korea
41:49
but The more I visited Korea,
41:52
I realized it's not just me,
41:54
it's a lot of people. Christians,
41:56
Buddhists, and all religions. It's more
41:59
of a tradition. cultural rather than
42:01
sort of religion, Buddhist-based. Oh, but
42:03
some of the particulars of how
42:05
you celebrate are rooted in a
42:08
religious. Yes, yes. And when I
42:10
was living in England or in
42:12
New York, my mother was too
42:15
busy to cook and we didn't
42:17
have relatives in the country, so
42:19
we would actually celebrate or do
42:22
the Chesa at a Buddhist temple.
42:24
Oh yeah and you know we
42:26
are Christian we go to church
42:28
every Sunday but twice a year
42:31
we went to the Buddhist temple
42:33
to remember my father what I
42:35
remember you know when I got
42:38
to be a certain age I
42:40
started to question the the monks
42:42
who would perform this jazz are
42:44
with me like why are we
42:47
doing this I'm Christian you know
42:49
what's this for and I think
42:51
I was 12 and that explanation
42:54
that I heard when I was
42:56
12 is the reason why I
42:58
keep doing it and the reason
43:01
why I will do it for
43:03
the rest of my life. The
43:05
monks explained that when we die
43:07
and we become spirits, we're just
43:10
like, we're, you know, we're alive,
43:12
we're very social. So all the
43:14
spirits are hanging out together, there's
43:17
a group of friends, and they
43:19
like to have parties, and their
43:21
parties are thrown by... by us
43:23
who are still living. So these
43:26
Cesar's are for them a bragging
43:28
right. You know, it is their
43:30
party night because they go around
43:33
to all of their friends Cesar's
43:35
and they eat and they have
43:37
a good time because everybody's remembering
43:40
them, bowing to them, pouring them
43:42
liquor at Cesar. And you know,
43:44
if you don't have Cesar for
43:46
your ancestors, then they are embarrassed.
43:49
You know, because people, you know,
43:51
they, it sort of shows that
43:53
you hadn't lived a good life
43:56
where people on earth don't remember
43:58
you. Or trying to remember you.
44:00
Yeah, yeah. That's so interesting. So,
44:02
you know, I had never known
44:05
my father, but he. gifted me
44:07
my life and I'm a very
44:09
happy person. So to show that
44:12
appreciation, I would always try, or
44:14
I have done a chess out
44:16
for 48 years now, 47 years,
44:19
yeah. Wow. And so what's on
44:21
the menu for this feast? It's
44:23
gotten now where every family or
44:25
every region has like sort of
44:28
different rules. What I do is
44:30
I veer a little bit away
44:32
from the Buddhist diet. So when
44:35
I was doing this at the
44:37
temple with the monks, they would
44:39
never use any spices. They wouldn't
44:41
use garlic onion, the aromatics, because
44:44
they said that these strong pungent
44:46
aromas would scare the spirits away.
44:48
Well, you know, I learned from
44:51
my relatives that my father loved
44:53
spices and loved meat and loved
44:55
fish. So I just thought, why
44:58
not cook food that he would
45:00
like? You know, even if it
45:02
would scare some of the spirits
45:04
away, which, you know, I don't
45:07
believe too much. But I truly
45:09
a chef. And I told my
45:11
son the other day, and he's
45:14
only 13, and he's like at
45:16
that point where he's questioning why
45:18
we do this. I told him,
45:20
look, you don't have to cook.
45:23
But go to a steakhouse, leave
45:25
an empty table for me, and
45:27
order me a nice porterhouse, medium
45:30
rare. And that would be... Because
45:32
that's how I would like to
45:34
remember. Traditionally, we always have chuns,
45:37
which are sort of savory pancakes,
45:39
little flays of fish. zucchini, tofu,
45:41
and then we definitely have Namus,
45:43
which are vegetables. Like if you
45:46
know pibimpap, it's the vegetables inside.
45:48
So spinach, watercress, what else? Which
45:50
now you mention, they're not very
45:53
heavily seasoned, right? Yeah. They're not
45:55
very heavily seasoned, but they always
45:57
have garlic. Yeah. All the Korean
46:00
Namos have garlic. and bean sprouts,
46:02
among bean sprouts. And I sort
46:04
of make it delicious, because we
46:06
have to eat it afterwards. So
46:09
I season it to the point
46:11
where, you know, it's, it's yummy.
46:13
And those are the
46:16
traditional ones. Are they
46:18
blanched? Yes. They're blanched.
46:20
And then they're dressed with
46:23
salt, soy sauce, garlic, sesame
46:25
oil, sesame seeds, etc. etc.
46:28
Kochkaru, which is the red
46:30
pepper flakes, which I do
46:33
because it tastes better. So,
46:35
and then a lot of
46:38
seasonal fruits, these days it
46:40
would be persimmons, very colorful
46:42
fruits as well, oranges, and
46:45
then candy. Candy, I actually
46:47
can't get here, but traditionally
46:50
in Korea, they have candies
46:52
that are specifically made for
46:54
Chesa. Very colorful Buddhist colors,
46:57
a lot of like... prime,
46:59
you know, green, blues, reds.
47:01
It just makes the table
47:04
look a lot more festive.
47:06
And then always a soup,
47:08
always a clear soup and
47:10
a large bowl of rice
47:12
and alcohol. Sometimes I do
47:14
sojus, sometimes I do makali.
47:16
Soju is like a clear
47:19
spirit, right? Almost like a...
47:21
Yes. But makali is like
47:23
a cloudy, fermented rice. Yeah,
47:25
it's brewed like a beer
47:27
almost. And I guess you
47:30
can sort of say it's almost
47:32
like a nigori sake slash
47:34
beer. Alcohol contents only
47:37
6%. It's on the sweeter side because
47:39
it is a lot of sugars
47:41
from the rice. And it's
47:43
traditionally a farmer's drink. Farmers,
47:45
middle of the day when
47:47
it was too hot, they
47:49
would drink makuli, take a
47:51
little hour nap, and then
47:53
they would go back to
47:55
work. It's actually not filtered.
47:57
It's actually the scraps.
47:59
from the actually filtered
48:02
part from the more
48:04
expensive Korean spirits and
48:06
alcohol. So from what
48:08
the rich people would drink, the
48:10
rice wine would be clear, and
48:13
then the scraps left over would
48:15
go to the farmers. These days,
48:17
though, it's really hip in Korea. All
48:20
the young people are sort of into
48:22
it. You know, I like it. So
48:24
I don't know if my dad liked
48:27
it, but I'm sure I'm sure he
48:29
would. He'll want to knock one back
48:31
with you. Yeah. So, yeah. Can we
48:34
go a little bit into the
48:36
Jones you make? Because I love these.
48:38
I've never been to a Korean New
48:40
Year celebration, but I see them in.
48:43
Korean restaurants, like sometimes a seafood pancake,
48:45
or some like kimchi pancake. Okay,
48:47
so that is a chunk as
48:49
well, but that's more like a
48:52
composed jun, where it's large and
48:54
round. The chaisea jun is a
48:56
little bit different. You make a
48:59
chunk individually, so it's flour, egg
49:01
batter, and then pan fry. And
49:04
we do that with like little
49:06
slices of like coins of zucchini.
49:08
We do it with little fillets
49:11
of fish. So we fillet of
49:13
fish and cut it down to
49:15
like sort of bite size
49:17
knobs. And then we season
49:20
it, flower it, egg batter
49:22
it and fry it. So
49:24
it's a lot of work.
49:26
So like individual. Yeah. Yeah.
49:29
You know, Jezaw food, you
49:31
know, and I've experienced this,
49:33
I don't know if it's
49:35
the best tasting Korean food,
49:37
but it is the most
49:40
labor intensive. It is the
49:42
most sort of, the toughest
49:44
to resource because traditionally because
49:47
you can't season it too much,
49:49
the ingredient itself has to
49:51
be fresh and has to
49:53
be really good because that
49:55
is what you're showcasing. So
49:57
a lot of this takes
49:59
in. Korean word Chung-song which is
50:01
care and dedication and devotion all of
50:03
that. I guess putting it all together
50:06
I'm thinking if I was in Korea
50:08
and I know there's probably regional variation
50:10
but like what are some of the
50:13
ingredients that I would be looking for
50:15
right now that that are stand-out ingredients
50:17
in the winter? Cabbage jun, nappa cabbage
50:20
because this is kimchi-making season. Kim-jiangs. Right
50:22
now is when cabbage is the sweetest.
50:24
Sweet potatoes and definitely fish. Like right
50:27
now, it's out of its fattiest. And
50:29
the Namos, it would be dried. Spring,
50:31
summer, great vegetables, Koreans dry it, and
50:34
then they hydrate it and make the
50:36
Namos in the winter. And that tradition
50:38
still exists. So you would be going
50:40
to the markets and knowing during the
50:43
summer which stalls have the freshest and
50:45
the nicest vegetables. in the winter they
50:47
will be selling the same vegetables that
50:50
are now dried. So that's what you
50:52
would get. And if for those who
50:54
might not know what Namu is, if
50:57
you go to a like a Korean
50:59
barbecue restaurant or in Korean restaurant, they
51:01
start you out with these little side
51:04
dishes, this Banchans. And most times they
51:06
will have several Namu's as one of
51:08
the Banchans because they are cheaper to
51:11
make and you can sort of make
51:13
a... a whole bunch at the same
51:15
time and it stays, you know, fresh
51:18
in your fridge for a couple of
51:20
days. And, you know, in Korea and
51:22
here, it's for every Korean family, we
51:24
always have Namul in the fridge. And
51:27
it's also a staple for Chesa. Yeah,
51:29
yeah, yeah. And I know you just
51:31
opened a little, a banchan, like, deli.
51:34
I can't wait to come visit you
51:36
there and actually grab a bunch of
51:38
these numbles and bring them home. Yeah.
51:41
I make them every day. Every morning.
51:43
Well, Chef, it has been great talking
51:45
with you. Thanks so much. Happy New
51:48
Year. Too too. Thank you. Bonchahn Shop
51:50
and is called His
51:52
and you can find
51:55
his recipe from
51:57
Simple Korea those fritters
51:59
he was talking about,
52:01
find his .org. for that
52:04
is our show today
52:06
to all of
52:08
you who celebrate was
52:11
Lunar New Year. at
52:13
talk to you next
52:15
week. And
52:18
that is our show today to all of who run
52:20
by Chandra Kavadi and Joanne
52:22
Griffith and the Splendid Table was
52:25
created by to and Lim Yozo
52:27
week. It's made each week by
52:29
technical producer Jennifer Jennifer Luci, producer Romero,
52:31
digital producer James James and managing
52:33
producer Sally producer Sally Be sure to
52:35
subscribe to our podcast on
52:37
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52:40
get your downloads and leave us
52:42
a review. It really helps
52:44
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52:46
is APM Lamb and this is a PM Studios.
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